What did you do to your FL5 today?

[Icehawk]

Not me, not the R but... got a call from the Subaru dealership and it turns out my wife's attempt to turn her 3mo old BRZ into a boat was unsuccessful and we can add another FA24 to the graveyard. Fortunately, insurance is in play. Not sure yet if they are going to repair or what.

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[dandaman15]

Got an NSX style shift knob and new collar installed. Trying out a setup thats a little higher and weighted to change things up for a bit.

 

[Mrjustin81]

Installed a PRL RMM today
Eventually will need something stiffer

 

[Clark_Kent]

Installed a PRL RMM today
Eventually will need something stiffer

Nice! What number would you assign the NVH at idle on a scale from 1-10 relative to stock (assuming your car is stock)?

I'm contemplating getting a RMM and looking at a few options but not interested in my teeth rattling out of my head or my passenger seat gyrating like crazy.

 

[Nikw91]

Nice! What number would you assign the NVH at idle on a scale from 1-10 relative to stock (assuming your car is stock)?

I'm contemplating getting a RMM and looking at a few options but not interested in my teeth rattling out of my head or my passenger seat gyrating like crazy.

The NVH is only noticeable when the air conditioning is on, no music is playing and you’re stopped.

No air conditioning, then the only things you notice are slightly crisper shifts.

I completely forget that the PRL RMM is installed at times.

 

[Mrjustin81]

Nice! What number would you assign the NVH at idle on a scale from 1-10 relative to stock (assuming your car is stock)?

I'm contemplating getting a RMM and looking at a few options but not interested in my teeth rattling out of my head or my passenger seat gyrating like crazy.

Im running the Phearable stage 2 tune right now, but everything else is stock. Haven’t driven on it yet. Just threw it in relatively quickly then rearranged the living room with my son. I got it used from a member for good price.
Ill give some feedback when after I drive it later in the week.

 

[getRIGHT]

The PRL RMM is the only PRL part I have on my car. When looking at all the other options out there this one was the softest yet it was more than stock. It definitely does just enough without being over bearing

 

[MooMoo]

Nice! What number would you assign the NVH at idle on a scale from 1-10 relative to stock (assuming your car is stock)?

I'm contemplating getting a RMM and looking at a few options but not interested in my teeth rattling out of my head or my passenger seat gyrating like crazy.

I have a hasport one, the least stiff one. Honestly if it was today I would not get it. Everyone waxes poetic on the RMM and I do not feel it really does anything. I will say that I don't launch the car, I track it and this does not have any benefit for that in my experience.

The NVH is not bad but its there. Cold start and more vibration, then its minimal unless AC is on as mentioned then there is a bit of vibration. Honestly its not bad at all but since in my experience this has done nothing for me I say its not worth it.

 

[PNEUMA]

Nice! What number would you assign the NVH at idle on a scale from 1-10 relative to stock (assuming your car is stock)?

I'm contemplating getting a RMM and looking at a few options but not interested in my teeth rattling out of my head or my passenger seat gyrating like crazy.

1 being soft and 10 being harsh as far as NVH with PRL rmm, I would assign it 2 or 3. The only PRL part I would own, and do, because of the quality of machining and more importantly the bushings used.

I notice that the rmm is there upon cold starts, but once warmed to operating temp it’s really a non issue for NVH. AC on, can still barely notice, and this is the only real condition (AC on) that you could discern that something’s different under there. No rattles, buzzes or vibes after install. Nobody rides with me and wonders why so harsh, because it isn’t there.

I drive barefooted, which I find to be best feel for me, and find the rmm coupled with the Acuity shifter to be such a nice pairing.

My 2025 is completely stock and at 950 miles now.

 

[maranelloboy05]

Took my week old car to Honda today, had to get emissions done since I bought out of state and had them check the alignment as the steering wheel was crooked, seems to be common issue from what I could find. Initially gave me trouble on covering the alignment under warranty but they found the toe was quite a bit out on all 4 wheels. Something to be aware of even on a brand new car.

 

[jtlctr]

1 being soft and 10 being harsh as far as NVH with PRL rmm, I would assign it 2 or 3. The only PRL part I would own, and do, because of the quality of machining and more importantly the bushings used.

I notice that the rmm is there upon cold starts, but once warmed to operating temp it’s really a non issue for NVH. AC on, can still barely notice, and this is the only real condition (AC on) that you could discern that something’s different under there. No rattles, buzzes or vibes after install. Nobody rides with me and wonders why so harsh, because it isn’t there.

I drive barefooted, which I find to be best feel for me, and find the rmm coupled with the Acuity shifter to be such a nice pairing.

My 2025 is completely stock and at 950 miles now.

Now I know what to get you for your birthday:
https://impelmotorsports.com/produc...SG1u6Sz18oT_f8gCkhgGswE7VPVcU8PKaSt2-V5CTRMxA

 

[Mrjustin81]

1 being soft and 10 being harsh as far as NVH with PRL rmm, I would assign it 2 or 3. The only PRL part I would own, and do, because of the quality of machining and more importantly the bushings used.

I notice that the rmm is there upon cold starts, but once warmed to operating temp it’s really a non issue for NVH. AC on, can still barely notice, and this is the only real condition (AC on) that you could discern that something’s different under there. No rattles, buzzes or vibes after install. Nobody rides with me and wonders why so harsh, because it isn’t there.

Accurate.
I could tell it was there driving today, but most likely only because I was really looking/feeling for it.
I can’t compare it to other aftermarket but it’s like an OEM+(+)? Or maybe a better analogy would be, going from the OEM in my Si to an FK8 RMM.

 

[zumbooruk]

Anyone rocking a rigid clutch pedal stop?

I just installed one I had in storage from some guy selling it from his part out. It feels great so far. A lot more satisfying clunk at the bottom of the clutch travel.

Anyone know if this is bad from the trans?


https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/products/rigid-aa1020-2

per JSR Engines it is not "bad" but rather better:

This JSR pedal stop kit allows a certain amount of stroke on the diaphragm while avoiding over-engagement or gear lock out on high rpm shifts. Anyone that has driven a stick shift car knows when you power shift or shift fast you should always half pedal to allow for smoother seamless shifts. When you slam the pedal to the floor it over extends the diaphragm of the clutch system almost making it seem like you are not pressing the clutch in (reversing the process). The reason for this is the clutch is designed and operates on a certain amount of stroke or allowed throw. When you pass that threshold the pressure plate begins to close as if its not being activated. This kit will limit your clutch slave throw allowing super quick and effortless shifts.

https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-fl5-de5-clutch-pedal-stop-kit

Blackhawk sells similar/same:

Preventing poor disengagement due to clutch overstroke and This is a clutch pedal stopper for adjusting clutch stroke. The seat position will also be improved by installing it.

https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/collections/body-reinforcement/products/rigid-aa1020-2


Being a cheapskate, I could not get myself to pay $54 (w/shipping) for the clutch pedal stopper, so I got this from Amazon for $0.80 per disc:

https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-Rubber-Washers-Anti-Vibration-Bushings/dp/B0F248XGZ4/

and used 3M double sided tape, which I already had at home, to mount it onto the OEM clutch pedal stopper:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/

I don't have a picture, but the combo measured 8mm which is just about 5/16"

the rubber disc is not hard/rigid, which I like over the hard OEM hard plastic stopper

I also adjusted the clutch pedal to eliminate most of the free play at the top

next step will be CDV delete, but need to get a bleeder kit first...

 

[Xmetal]

per JSR Engines it is not "bad" but rather better:

This JSR pedal stop kit allows a certain amount of stroke on the diaphragm while avoiding over-engagement or gear lock out on high rpm shifts. Anyone that has driven a stick shift car knows when you power shift or shift fast you should always half pedal to allow for smoother seamless shifts. When you slam the pedal to the floor it over extends the diaphragm of the clutch system almost making it seem like you are not pressing the clutch in (reversing the process). The reason for this is the clutch is designed and operates on a certain amount of stroke or allowed throw. When you pass that threshold the pressure plate begins to close as if its not being activated. This kit will limit your clutch slave throw allowing super quick and effortless shifts.

https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-fl5-de5-clutch-pedal-stop-kit

Blackhawk sells similar/same:

Preventing poor disengagement due to clutch overstroke and This is a clutch pedal stopper for adjusting clutch stroke. The seat position will also be improved by installing it.

https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/collections/body-reinforcement/products/rigid-aa1020-2


Being a cheapskate, I could not get myself to pay $54 (w/shipping) for the clutch pedal stopper, so I got this from Amazon for $0.80 per disc:

https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-Rubber-Washers-Anti-Vibration-Bushings/dp/B0F248XGZ4/

and used 3M double sided tape, which I already had at home, to mount it onto the OEM clutch pedal stopper:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-5952-VHB-Tape/dp/B01BU7038A/

I don't have a picture, but the combo measured 8mm which is just about 5/16"

the rubber disc is not hard/rigid, which I like over the hard OEM hard plastic stopper

I also adjusted the clutch pedal to eliminate most of the free play at the top

next step will be CDV delete, but need to get a bleeder kit first...

Also a cheapskate, I made mine from furniture pads from Home Depot. $4 for a pack of 4.

 

[maranelloboy05]

Nice little box from King arrived today, perfectly paired with the JDM OEM shift boot. First mod, didn't even make it two weeks.

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