Don’t really want to blow $800-1200 on a legit lip yet and blow it to a thousand pieces. I saw they recently came out with these cheaper setups I can test out to see if something can even make it up my driveway so I snagged one to try out before fully committing. I’ll update once I get it and...
Realistically you can get close to 350/350 with a completely stock car on a custom 93 tune.
The addition of an intercooler and downpipe will reduce restrictions and resist heat soak but if you just want to do a few pulls and are not tracking the car they may not be 100% necessary.
If you are running the car hard with that high of pressures hot and still see sidewalls being rolled, its time to look at adding more front camber.
This would also help turn in significantly if you are able to run closer to -3°.
Its simpler to run some extra toe out but this will also chew...
Would you run the same exact model?
What is the difference in life between the front and back?
Have you checked your alignment?
What do you consider low speed?
With the little information provided it could be as simple as tire pressure change or alignment rather than putting new tires on...
No rubbing at all. I do have 265's and the strut pins up front pulled for max camber without ball joints. Its really close though, a different set of 265s or 275's may rub in the front. The back has a good amount of space still.
275s can help but youll also want a 5mm spacer if you are focused on flush fitment. The best offset to get a flush fitment on a 9.5 is +38
This is +38 on a 265.
Great info and sounds like they took all the right things into consideration.
The longer motion arm on the spring slipped my mind initially but that makes sense why a softer spring can be ran.
Is the car lowered?
If the shop does not have an In-Ground alignment rack and you are lowered on something like Swift theres a chance it could be too low and drag the front bumper driving up it.
Lowered car friendly:
Not Lowered Car friendly: