Tire question

Evox787

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I’ll be changing wheels and tires on my FL5. I daily mine, and where I live gets cold but not freezing. For the information I gathered, the Pilot Sport 4s is rated to be safe to use no more than 40 degrees. I mainly use the highway with a couple of bridges, and the speed is 75-80. My question is, will I be keeping the 19” with 265/30/19? Is there much of a difference between the Pilot 4S and the Continental Extremecontact DWS 06+? I also will be lowering the car with H&R springs. This will be a performance decrease that I probably would not notice, and can I do spirited driving on them? Will I run into fitment issues like rubbing and such. Wheel I really don’t know, but it will go to be on the realm from 45 to 55mm.
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zumbooruk

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I’ll be changing wheels and tires on my FL5. I daily mine, and where I live gets cold but not freezing. For the information I gathered, the Pilot Sport 4s is rated to be safe to use no more than 40 degrees. I mainly use the highway with a couple of bridges, and the speed is 75-80. My question is, will I be keeping the 19” with 265/30/19? Is there much of a difference between the Pilot 4S and the Continental Extremecontact DWS 06+? I also will be lowering the car with H&R springs. This will be a performance decrease that I probably would not notice, and can I do spirited driving on them? Will I run into fitment issues like rubbing and such. Wheel I really don’t know, but it will go to be on the realm from 45 to 55mm.
The DWS is Ultra High Performance All-Season while the PS4s is Max Performance Summer.

For what it is worth, this is TireRack comparison, Left is DWS, right is PS4S
11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question TireRack compare PS4S vs DWS


I am in SoCal, and plan to keep the OEM tires till they go bald, and then get the DWS for bit more safety in the rain (also in 35 profile for a bit more sidewall)

I am aware that the DWS is not as "sharp" handling (esp with the taller sidewall), but I rather be safe than sorry.

My thinking is that if I wreck my FL5, I might not be able to replace it...

Though I might be a bit more conservative than most.
 
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Evox787

Evox787

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That’s why I’m thinking of replacing them later on so I can use them all year around. I’m from Texas. We get rain, but not too much, at least in my area. I’m not planning on using them just because I don’t want to impose on my wife. I have another car that she can use, and I can use her car, but I was wondering if there is a lot of difference, just in case I need to drive on 30 odd degrees.
 

zumbooruk

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I am no tire expert. so I asked my favorite AI tool Grok (which seems even more conservative than me...)

The PS4S tires use a silica-based compound that hardens significantly in cold temps, reducing flexibility and grip even on dry pavement. The general consensus from tire experts and user experiences is that they're not recommended below 40-45°F (about 4-7°C), as traction drops off sharply, increasing stopping distances and risk of skidding.

Below 30°F, the rubber can become brittle, leading to potential cracking over time (especially if the tires are stored or parked in those conditions), and immediate handling issues like reduced steering response.

You could drive them carefully if temps stay above 40°F, keep speeds moderate (under 55 mph), avoid sudden inputs, and warm up the tires gradually with easy driving for the first 5-10 miles. But below 30°F, it's not safe, even dry roads can feel slick, and any unexpected cold or icy patch could compromise control. The absolute lowest "safe" temp for limited, cautious use is around 40°F, I've seen FL5 owners report ABS kicking in prematurely on cold dry roads due to this. If temps dip that low, park it or use alternative transport.

Even if air temps are above 32°F, bridges and overpasses cool faster than ground-level roads due to air flow underneath, so black ice (thin, transparent ice that looks like wet pavement) can form there if there's any moisture and road surface temps dip below freezing. On PS4S tires, which have zero ice traction rating, this is a high-risk scenario, the summer compounds don't grip ice at all, and black ice can cause instant loss of control even at low speeds.

If you must drive, slow way down to 30-45 mph approaching bridges, keep a huge following distance (at least 6-8 seconds), and avoid braking or accelerating on them, also coast if possible.

Look for shiny or "wet-looking" patches that don't splash like water, and if you hit one, stay calm: don't jerk the wheel or slam brakes, just ease off gas and steer straight until you regain traction. If black ice is possible, it's best to delay or reroute until temps rise and roads dry, preserving your CTR means not risking a slide that could damage suspension or bodywork.​
 


zumbooruk

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We live in SoCal, when is rain ever a problem? ;) :p
But when it does rain, most drivers in SoCal have no clue...

Any extra bit of control on my part might help navigate around any idios sliding around. I've had near misses before.

btw, not just in the rain.

This weekend I stopped at a T intersection where the right side of the T is a dead end, in an area where there are very few cars on the road, and pretty much no cars going in/out of the dead end.

Map

(btw, the park is known as "E.T. Park" since that where they shot some part of the movie)

A guy who came up behind me apparently did not appreciate me stopping, veered to the right turn only lane, did not stop, turned left at full speed from the right lane and proceeded to promptly lose control and slam into the curb...
 
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Xmetal

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But when it does rain, most drivers in SoCal have no clue...

Any extra bit of control on my part might help navigate around any idios sliding around. I've had near misses before.

btw, not just in the rain.

This weekend I stopped at a T intersection where the right side of the T is a dead end, in an area where there are very few cars on the road, and pretty much no cars going in/out of the dead end.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/34°17'44.4"N+118°32'37.5"W/@34.2956493,-118.5439224,144m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d34.2956667!4d-118.54375

A guy who came up behind me apparently did not appreciate me stopping, veered to the right turn only lane, did not stop, and at full speed proceeded to promptly lose control and slam into the curb...
With the very minimal rain that we get, I'll take my dry traction advantages of the PS4S 95% of the time over the 5% of the time when we do get rain and need wet traction - JMHO. Also, it's not like the PS4S suck in the wet either unless they're bald.
 

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That’s why I’m thinking of replacing them later on so I can use them all year around. I’m from Texas. We get rain, but not too much, at least in my area. I’m not planning on using them just because I don’t want to impose on my wife. I have another car that she can use, and I can use her car, but I was wondering if there is a lot of difference, just in case I need to drive on 30 odd degrees.
I am going to be getting some winter wheels and tires for my FL5 by the end of November, in case I go out of state later in the season.

I have a full set of 5 Honda Forged FL5 Shark Gray 10 Spoke wheels on 275/35 ZR19 Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 that you can borrow for the season... you just have to meet me at my local shop, in NW San Antonio. I don't think you live that close to me, though...
Just sayin, if you wanna try em out... offer is on the table.
 
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Evox787

Evox787

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I am going to be getting some winter wheels and tires for my FL5 by the end of November, in case I go out of state later in the season.

I have a full set of 5 Honda Forged FL5 Shark Gray 10 Spoke wheels on 275/35 ZR19 Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 that you can borrow for the season... you just have to meet me at my local shop, in NW San Antonio. I don't think you live that close to me, though...
Just sayin, if you wanna try em out... offer is on the table.
Thank for that I will be doing some thinking and see what happens! Thank you
 


Sporky McGeuschky

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11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question 1763002437046-0i


... Some All Season goodness, perhaps...?

This is how the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 in size 275/35 ZR19 looks on OEM stock suspension.
11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question 1763002800979-h8
 
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Evox787

Evox787

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This is the wheel I’m thinking of: 19x9.5 +55, but they offer it in +53 and + 45 also. I know that on 45 they sit flush with the fenders. Is there going to be a lot of difference between them? I look at the calculators they have on the internet, and +55 isn’t that“aggressive.“ I just saw the design on @Sporky McGeuschky Mita, like the brand, how it looks, and that you get the dial offset. They have various interesting models. I know the tariffs will make them a little expensive, but everything is calculated at checkout, and they take the guesswork out of what I will pay. I don’t know why other shops couldn’t do that. It is interesting, and you don’t need to be a financial and duties employee to know what you will pay.

11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question IMG_3623


11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question IMG_3624


11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question IMG_3627


11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question IMG_3625


11th Gen Honda Civic Tire question IMG_3626
 

FL5HondaGuy

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Why not just use the stock wheels and save some $$$ ?
Get a 265/35/19 A/S and call it a day (see my sig) .
I initially rolled the dice on an AS as opposed to a dedicated winter set-up as I wanted to be frugal.
I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of the Michelin AS even in New England winters.
Ride is more compliant as well and no more rubber band look (30's are simply to low of a profile for a DD especially where I live )
p.s.
Even with a +45 offset you will still be well under the fender. If you were +40/+35 then you are closer to what I would deem "flush" depending on width of tire. GL
 
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Evox787

Evox787

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Why not just use the stock wheels and save some $$$ ?
Get a 265/35/19 A/S and call it a day (see my sig) .
I initially rolled the dice on an AS as opposed to a dedicated winter set-up as I wanted to be frugal.
I was pleasantly surprised with the performance of the Michelin AS even in New England winters.
Ride is more compliant as well and no more rubber band look (30's are simply to low of a profile for a DD especially where I live )
p.s.
Even with a +45 offset you will still be well under the fender. If you were +40/+35 then you are closer to what I would deem "flush" depending on width of tire. GL
The issue I’m having with my stock wheels is that no local tire shop can handle them properly. They claim they can, but I’ve already had a wheel messed up by one of these shops. Dealing with damaged OEM wheels and then having to buy a replacement because of someone else’s mistake is frustrating. I also really don’t want to drive two or three hours just to risk more damage. That’s why I’d rather buy regular wheels to avoid all the hassle. I’m not looking for a perfectly flush fitment—just a little more poke, nothing extreme—which is why I was considering those wheel specs.
 

FL5HondaGuy

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Makes sense. I count myself as fortunate as I live 2 minutes from a tire shop and the owner is a car guy. He has an M2 and his best friend has a Blue FL5 so the shop is familiar with the platform and the reverse mount requirement for our cars. Sorry to hear they messed up one of your rims. I would not travel 3 hours wondering if the job would be done right either. GL my guy.
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