*The FL5 Track Junkie Thread*

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someone has done that

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/tow-strap-setup-for-the-track.53331/


Too permanent for me and I think high possibility that would damage the bumper if the car really had to be towed. I guess if you designed something kind of like the evasive where the mount ends at the grill and then you screw the strap there

1733151541642-6a.jpg
The strap post would need to be longer so that it doesn't tug on the grill when being towed. If the post came out an inch past the mesh grill then the problem would be solved.
 

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Anyone thoughts on the RV6 Camber arms vs the SPC/Eibach shaped arms?
Can you install the RV6 Camber arms without their own lower arm?

1733150371188-sh.jpg
I have the Whiteline rear toe arms, and the SPC upper arm. I think the RV6 lower arm would be an easier install, but can't say for sure. I still have these parts in the box, as they were intended for my Si and I don't really need them yet on my R.
 

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but where are you going to mount them?

not concerned about weight, its not a lot but I do like straps too but no one really is making straps for this car apart from M&M, the rear won't fit the US market car and the front you have to cut into the grill in the bumper and have it be permanently there which I don't love

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but where are you going to mount them?

not concerned about weight, its not a lot but I do like straps too but no one really is making straps for this car apart from M&M, the rear won't fit the US market car and the front you have to cut into the grill in the bumper and have it be permanently there which I don't love

Pretty much all companies who make safety equipment for motorsports have tow straps. As to how to mount them is almost the same as tow hooks. Might need a bit of diy engineering though.
 

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Pretty much all companies who make safety equipment for motorsports have tow straps. As to how to mount them is almost the same as tow hooks. Might need a bit of diy engineering though.
yeah they just cut a hole in the bumper. Im good with that lol


11th Gen Honda Civic *The FL5 Track Junkie Thread* 1733152009134-9w
 

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The strap post would need to be longer so that it doesn't tug on the grill when being towed. If the post came out an inch past the mesh grill then the problem would be solved.
yeah that would work nicely

Seems like the spoon car did something similar (or maybe just doing what the dude on the other thread did).

11th Gen Honda Civic *The FL5 Track Junkie Thread* 1733152284990-lu



ah nevermind, that is old, they have moved it (probably for good reason)

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I have the Whiteline rear toe arms, and the SPC upper arm. I think the RV6 lower arm would be an easier install, but can't say for sure. I still have these parts in the box, as they were intended for my Si and I don't really need them yet on my R.
their lower arm looks pimp, but that's for toe only. SCCA Tuner only allows one arm to be changed, so was going to do camber. but the two shapes are entirely different, so was wondering it it works alone.
 

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their lower arm looks pimp, but that's for toe only. SCCA Tuner only allows one arm to be changed, so was going to do camber. but the two shapes are entirely different, so was wondering it it works alone.
Something is wrong on the RV6 website:

RV6 16+ CivicX Rear Lower A Control Arms (Adjust Camber) – RV6 Performance This is toe
RV6 16+ CivicX Rear Lower B Arm (Adjusts toe) – RV6 Performance This is camber

If you click on the install instructions it spells out which bar is for which adjustment. Weird that they're listed wrong. The B arm is camber, and the A arm is toe. The SPC is an upper camber adjustment vs. the RV6 B arm is adjusting camber at the bottom of the knuckle instead.
 

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Something is wrong on the RV6 website:

RV6 16+ CivicX Rear Lower A Control Arms (Adjust Camber) – RV6 Performance This is toe
RV6 16+ CivicX Rear Lower B Arm (Adjusts toe) – RV6 Performance This is camber

If you click on the install instructions it spells out which bar is for which adjustment. Weird that they're listed wrong. The B arm is camber, and the A arm is toe. The SPC is an upper camber adjustment vs. the RV6 B arm is adjusting camber at the bottom of the knuckle instead.
I thought so, but was like uhhh, ok....they should know better than me. Thanks for confirmation!
 

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I thought so, but was like uhhh, ok....they should know better than me. Thanks for confirmation!
lol and every other reseller just picks up the wrong description. Someone on the RV6 website team messed up IMO. I was thinking how can you adjust toe from the bottom of the knuckle at the centerline of the wheel ?
 


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btw, the SPC arms look like a difficult or tight install. The bolt on the inside of the arm looks tough to reach but it could just be my inexperience. It's been a while since I've had suspension apart.
 
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These are my pre-alignment settings after installing the EVS ball joints. The joints are currently in their most aggressive setting. I'm going to swap the collars for the middle setting instead to reduce scrub radius (per @tezzasaurusrex ). My pins are pulled and maxed out. I'm thinking -3 to -3.2 is the sweet spot that I want. 4.4 is just redonkulous. After adjustments I was able to dial the camber down to 3.7 on the aggressive setting, which is still a bit much for me. You can also see how far off the toe is after the installation...lets just say the drive to work today was...sketchy.

*Ignore the castor. These alignment heads are the clip on style, and not the style that actually grabs the rim.

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Pretty much all companies who make safety equipment for motorsports have tow straps. As to how to mount them is almost the same as tow hooks. Might need a bit of diy engineering though.
I've had my front tow strap bolted to the strut tower, I've seen it on a couple of track cars before. Hopefully it's strong enough in case I ever need it.

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