PointByPatrol #21985 Build Journal! RIP #9243

[PointByPatrol]

@PointByPatrol, for someone in a completely stock FL5 would you recommend Paragon R5, R7 or something else for track days? Are stock pads for the rear OK?

I have Motul RBF 600 (I believe you recommend the 660 but I need to use up what I have before switching) and titanium shims.

You'll really enjoy an R7 front R5 rear combo. The R7's have a great initial bite, which really inspires confidence, and the modulation is wonderful. Go ahead and heat cycle that RBF 600 and get it out of there after your track day. I'd recommend going with Castrol SRF in the future!

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[PointByPatrol]

It may be important to list my current track setup as of now... So here it is.

Engine:
PRL Intercooler
HEL Oil Cooler
TSP Catted DP
Remark Ti Exhaust
Eventuri Intake
Radium Coolant Tank

Drivetrain:
Hasport 62a RMM

Suspension:
Stock

Brakes:
AP/Essex 355mm BBK
Ferodo DS3.12 Front Pads
Paragon R5 Rear Pads
Girodisc Rear Rotors
Dream Stainless Lines

Wheels/Tires:
Volk TE37 SL 18x9.5 +38 Offset
Nitto NT01 275/35/18

Fluids:
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
Motul 300v 0w20 Oil
AC Delco Transmission Fluid
Factory Coolant

Engine Tuning:
Jester's Track Tune

 

[hhkb]

It may be important to list my current track setup as of now... So here it is.

Engine:
PRL Intercooler
HEL Oil Cooler
TSP Catted DP
Remark Ti Exhaust
Eventuri Intake
Radium Coolant Tank

Drivetrain:
Hasport 62a RMM

Suspension:
Stock

Brakes:
AP/Essex 355mm BBK
Ferodo DS3.12 Front Pads
Paragon R5 Rear Pads

Wheels/Tires:
Volk TE37 SL 18x9.5 +38 Offset
Nitto NT01 275/35/18

Fluids:
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
Motul 300v 0w20 Oil
AC Delco Transmission Fluid
Factory Coolant

Engine Tuning:
Jester's Track Tune

Hi! I’ve been following this thread and your build has been influencing me greatly. Thank you for sharing your work!

I have completed one HPDE and about a dozen autox days over the past decade, and am looking to bring the CTR out to the track more often.

I would highly prefer keeping the car as stock as possible since I enjoy driving the car as it was engineered. With that being said, safety trumps that desire so I am considering upgrading the braking system.

HEL stainless lines and brake fluid seem like a no-brainer, but do you also recommend Girodisc rear rotors and Paragon pads all around, or are the stock brakes sufficient?

 

[PointByPatrol]

Hi! I’ve been following this thread and your build has been influencing me greatly. Thank you for sharing your work!

I have completed one HPDE and about a dozen autox days over the past decade, and am looking to bring the CTR out to the track more often.

I would highly prefer keeping the car as stock as possible since I enjoy driving the car as it was engineered. With that being said, safety trumps that desire so I am considering upgrading the braking system.

HEL stainless lines and brake fluid seem like a no-brainer, but do you also recommend Girodisc rear rotors and Paragon pads all around, or are the stock brakes sufficient?

I like to retain the factory rotors just in case I ever need to put them back on for any reason, so I don't track on them because I don't want to warp or gouge them. Same story with the pads. I like to have a brake setup for "thrashing" and one for road driving.

For you I'd recommend GiroDisc front and rear rotors, stainless lines of your choosing, Castrol SRF fluid, and Paragon R5's for the front and R3's for the rear. Don't forget titanium shims for the front brakes to protect from heat!

My pad recommendation is based solely off of your AutoX activities, as the "straights" are short and the brake force/time required to slow down during an AutoX is not nearly as harsh as on a road course.

 

[hhkb]

I like to retain the factory rotors just in case I ever need to put them back on for any reason, so I don't track on them because I don't want to warp or gouge them. Same story with the pads. I like to have a brake setup for "thrashing" and one for road driving.

For you I'd recommend GiroDisc front and rear rotors, stainless lines of your choosing, Castrol SRF fluid, and Paragon R5's for the front and R3's for the rear. Don't forget titanium shims for the front brakes to protect from heat!

My pad recommendation is based solely off of your AutoX activities, as the "straights" are short and the brake force/time required to slow down during an AutoX is not nearly as harsh as on a road course.

Ahh thank you! Would your recommendations change if I were planning on doing more HPDE events, while continuing regular autox sessions?

 

[PointByPatrol]

Ahh thank you! Would your recommendations change if I were planning on doing more HPDE events, while continuing regular autox sessions?

Yes. If you're going to start road course I would bump to R7's in the front and R5's in the rear!

 

[CG13]

I recently purchased the Remark full titanium exhaust from TSP. Are they replacing the titanium front pipe with a stainless proactively or only after a failure?

 

[PointByPatrol]

I recently purchased the Remark full titanium exhaust from TSP. Are they replacing the titanium front pipe with a stainless proactively or only after a failure?

I had to send them an email, and I sent it before it failed, but it will DEFINITELY fail on track.

 

[CG13]

Thanks. I reached out to Remark.

 

[Jester04]

Thanks. I reached out to Remark.

Yes the front pipe will rip open 100% sure. So good that you are attacking this ahead of time.

 

[Jester04]

I’m just here waiting until @PointByPatrol comes seeking more power.

 

[PointByPatrol]

A little care package arrived from @Two Step Performance! MOOOOAAAAAR!

 

[PointByPatrol]

Also, I should have taken pictures/video today, but I pulled my plugs, and stuck a borescope into all four cylinders today. The car was sounding different, and I believe I've resolved that to a difference in resonance between stainless steel and titanium. The exhaust sounds different ever since replacing the Remark front pipe from the original titanium to the new stainless replacement. Happy to report that the cylinders, valves, and pistons look fantastic. The factory crosshatch is clearly visible, and in excellent condition. I did notice carbon deposits on the stems of my intake valves, which means it's time to invest in some catch cans!

 

[hhkb]

Also, I should have taken pictures/video today, but I pulled my plugs, and stuck a borescope into all four cylinders today. The car was sounding different, and I believe I've resolved that to a difference in resonance between stainless steel and titanium. The exhaust sounds different ever since replacing the Remark front pipe from the original titanium to the new stainless replacement. Happy to report that the cylinders, valves, and pistons look fantastic. The factory crosshatch is clearly visible, and in excellent condition. I did notice carbon deposits on the stems of my intake valves, which means it's time to invest in some catch cans!

I have been watching your YouTube videos. Thank you for the helpful content!

which catch can do you plan on going with?

 

[PointByPatrol]

I have been watching your YouTube videos. Thank you for the helpful content!

which catch can do you plan on going with?

Likely radium!

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