Icehawk's "OEM+" speaker upgrade

[jtlctr]

Goal:
Improve overall sound quality via an "OEM+" style speaker upgrade using CDT Audio drivers. The OEM Bose system ecosystem will remain intact and no electronics will be added (L2Ci, etc). Fully reversible if desired.


I had done this with my ND Miata's Bose system (CDT ES-6.2 woofer and JL C1-075 tweeter) and it was well worth the moderate cost & ease of installation particularly at higher volumes which, in a convertible, is important. The Miata community liked this enough that a vendor, Paco Motorsports, sells kits centered around CDT Audio 2ohm speakers.

To quote myself from the Miata.net forum, "Now the car sounds like it should. IMO, if the stock system sounded like this I wouldn't have done a thing." Previously I had stated that the Bose system was "junk" (it is).

CDT Audio drivers:
ES-6.2 door (2ohm), 2nds/refurbished - I've bought these twice now and both times they appear to be 1st quality
CF-3 dash (this is a DVC so can be wired for 2ohm) ***UPDATED NOTE*** The center speaker measured to 4ohm, I will be choosing a different driver for this position
ES-1200iS tweeters (4ohm but high sensitivity, should be fine based on prior Bose replacement experience). Have done nothing here regarding crossover... TBD
Total price: $310 (all numbers inc shipping)

A much less costly version (~$125) of this could be built using CL-6.2 & ET-250 and skipping the center speaker that I bet it will still be an audible upgrade over stock especially as you turn the volume up.

I'd like to do the rear doors (1" tweeter, 5.25" woofer) but I can't find 2ohm 5.25" drivers. ***UPDATED NOTE*** 5.25" measure 4ohm. Worst case I'll opt for CDT CL-5 2nds and pair it with ET-250 2nds so the "voicing" of the system is consistent and keep costs reasonable (~$120). Not sure if it's worth throwing more money at the rear spot with ES-5s and Es-1200iS (~$225) but... it's "only" +$100 so knowing me I'll probably go with them

Not convinced that replacing the sub's driver is worth it based on FK8 posts unless you l2Ci/amp it, so no plans currently to modify this. Definitely not going to waste time or money on the two rear 3" speakers that are firing directly at each other - no idea wth the designers were thinking there, if they aimed at the rear glass it would make more sense.

How are you liking the CDT 6.5" speakers? Do you feel it was worth the effort and money?

Sponsored

 

[Icehawk]

How are you liking the CDT 6.5" speakers? Do you feel it was worth the effort and money?

100% it's worth doing. Ditto the tweeters (I acknowledge these may be a pain to install). Those are the biggest bang for your buck, depending on choices you should expect to spend ~$150-250.

Next steps after would be door speakers & tweeters then I'd go with the 1ohm cheapo sub driver replacement. Each of those upgrades are noticeable too but not as big a return as doing the front. Figure $100-200 for rear doors and $50 for the sub. The center channel and rear pillar speakers aren't worth bothering with although I did upgrade the center (because I can't help myself!).

For ~$500 it will sound like it should have from the factory IMO but even just the front is a huge improvement. I splurged and also had some professional work done (front tweeter mounting) and even with some poor purchases and extra parts I think I'm $1,200 all-in? The next step up is pretty big, 2-3x in cost to use amps, DSPs, etc.

 

[jtlctr]

100% it's worth doing. Ditto the tweeters (I acknowledge these may be a pain to install). Those are the biggest bang for your buck, depending on choices you should expect to spend ~$150-250.

Next steps after would be door speakers & tweeters then I'd go with the 1ohm cheapo sub driver replacement. Each of those upgrades are noticeable too but not as big a return as doing the front. Figure $100-200 for rear doors and $50 for the sub. The center channel and rear pillar speakers aren't worth bothering with although I did upgrade the center (because I can't help myself!).

For ~$500 it will sound like it should have from the factory IMO but even just the front is a huge improvement. I splurged and also had some professional work done (front tweeter mounting) and even with some poor purchases and extra parts I think I'm $1,200 all-in? The next step up is pretty big, 2-3x in cost to use amps, DSPs, etc.

Thank you for the thorough advice and info! I just did some minor sound deadening in the doors, which seemed to help, but I'd like to go a little further.

 

[Mikity]

For a stock system, I think the Bose did OK. I think it's better than most stocks out there(Sony, B&O, etc..)

I recently sound treated all four door, trunk and the sub enclosure.(while also replacing the Bose 8IN sub). I never did it before and never knew it would be this good.
The sound deadening is totally worth it, it's the best upgrade for that overall experience and sound quality. It'll be a great foundation for future upgrades should you decided to do it in steps.

I think the correct impedance is really important if you're upgrading, minimizing or keeping it as close to stock without all the crazy wirings or amped, etc...
I read a review in FB regarding the AUDIOFROG 8IN SUB for his FL5. I chatted with him a little and decided to pull the trigger. The Audiofrog is a dual 2-ohm voice coils, it's wired to 1-ohm.
I wasn't expecting much but boy he wasn't kidding when he said it felt like it was amped.
It really surprised me. I think it was punching and kicking above it's weight for an 8IN sub.
I also replaced the center 3.5 with a JL C2-350x. The soundstage is better with it.

The source or the quality of the music you're playing makes a huge difference. If what you're playing is some low quality, low bit rate, shitty MP3, the sound quality would be bad, the volume is gone no matter how much you spend or upgraded.

@Icehawk and everyone
Thanks for all your work! You inspired me to splurge and not settle for the Bose!
I'm looking to upgrade the rest of the speakers in the near future. My budget is $300-$500 per pair. I'm looking at some Focal but not sure if they'll work or offering the correct impedance especially for the front doors.
If you have to do it over again, would you still go with your setup for the front/rear door drivers, A pillar and rear door tweeters ? What would y'all suggest and recommend ?

 

[actingbusy]

For a stock system, I think the Bose did OK. I think it's better than most stocks out there(Sony, B&O, etc..)

I recently sound treated all four door, trunk and the sub enclosure.(while also replacing the Bose 8IN sub). I never did it before and never knew it would be this good.
The sound deadening is totally worth it, it's the best upgrade for that overall experience and sound quality. It'll be a great foundation for future upgrades should you decided to do it in steps.

I think the correct impedance is really important if you're upgrading, minimizing or keeping it as close to stock without all the crazy wirings or amped, etc...
I read a review in FB regarding the AUDIOFROG 8IN SUB for his FL5. I chatted with him a little and decided to pull the trigger. The Audiofrog is a dual 2-ohm voice coils, it's wired to 1-ohm.
I wasn't expecting much but boy he wasn't kidding when he said it felt like it was amped.
It really surprised me. I think it was punching and kicking above it's weight for an 8IN sub.
I also replaced the center 3.5 with a JL C2-350x. The soundstage is better with it.

The source or the quality of the music you're playing makes a huge difference. If what you're playing is some low quality, low bit rate, shitty MP3, the sound quality would be bad, the volume is gone no matter how much you spend or upgraded.

@Icehawk and everyone
Thanks for all your work! You inspired me to splurge and not settle for the Bose!
I'm looking to upgrade the rest of the speakers in the near future. My budget is $300-$500 per pair. I'm looking at some Focal but not sure if they'll work or offering the correct impedance especially for the front doors.
If you have to do it over again, would you still go with your setup for the front/rear door drivers, A pillar and rear door tweeters ? What would y'all suggest and recommend ?

I recently upgraded my stock subwoofer (POST ABOVE) with an amped 8" JL Audio and well obviously after that upgrade, I wanted the rest of the factory speakers to match and heres my experience.

First went with a set of Memphis Audio PRX 6.5 2 ohm version and honestly, the stock BOSE were better so sent them back and tried a set of JL Audio C1 650 and again, the stock BOSE were a better sound. Then after sending those back, I decided to try a set of ELS speakers from the Acura Integra system, and well for the $60 a set, they were an improvement over the BOSE option. I also swapped out the tweeters and center dash afterwards for the ELS version from the Integra and Im happy with the cost / improvement ratio without going the fully amped option.

Total cost in for the 4 doors, tweeters and center were about $160 on eBay. Also added the sound deadening in all 4 doors and to be honest, thats been the biggest satisfaction for me. Really did quiet the interior down and the biggest time I noticed it is when I had to use my horn in traffic and it sounded soooo muffled inside of the cabin and thats considering I upgraded both of the stock horns to aftermarket ones.

Good luck everyone and feel free to ask any specifics.

 

[Icehawk]

I'm looking to upgrade the rest of the speakers in the near future. My budget is $300-$500 per pair. I'm looking at some Focal but not sure if they'll work or offering the correct impedance especially for the front doors.
If you have to do it over again, would you still go with your setup for the front/rear door drivers, A pillar and rear door tweeters ? What would y'all suggest and recommend ?

I stand by my posts - 2ohm front doors, 4ohm front tweeter, 1ohm sub replacement are where you get the most for your buck. I really should do some sound deadening in the doors, been a while but I think I only did the trunk and sub area.

@actingbusy Any idea on what ohm the ELS stuff is? I could see how they could be a good and easy swap assuming they use 2ohm front doors drivers. Haven’t heard the ELS but folks do say the Acura sounds better stock vs FL5.

I had to do the rear doors as well as I could hear the crap sound from back there too but you may be less sensitive. I didn’t find upgrading the center channel to be an improvement and the rear pillars as I have stated are 110% worthless.

If you are in the Miami area I would be happy to demo, I go to some of the car shows once weather is cooler too.

 

[AspecR]

For a stock system, I think the Bose did OK. I think it's better than most stocks out there(Sony, B&O, etc..)

I recently sound treated all four door, trunk and the sub enclosure.(while also replacing the Bose 8IN sub). I never did it before and never knew it would be this good.
The sound deadening is totally worth it, it's the best upgrade for that overall experience and sound quality. It'll be a great foundation for future upgrades should you decided to do it in steps.

I think the correct impedance is really important if you're upgrading, minimizing or keeping it as close to stock without all the crazy wirings or amped, etc...
I read a review in FB regarding the AUDIOFROG 8IN SUB for his FL5. I chatted with him a little and decided to pull the trigger. The Audiofrog is a dual 2-ohm voice coils, it's wired to 1-ohm.
I wasn't expecting much but boy he wasn't kidding when he said it felt like it was amped.
It really surprised me. I think it was punching and kicking above it's weight for an 8IN sub.
I also replaced the center 3.5 with a JL C2-350x. The soundstage is better with it.

The source or the quality of the music you're playing makes a huge difference. If what you're playing is some low quality, low bit rate, shitty MP3, the sound quality would be bad, the volume is gone no matter how much you spend or upgraded.

@Icehawk and everyone
Thanks for all your work! You inspired me to splurge and not settle for the Bose!
I'm looking to upgrade the rest of the speakers in the near future. My budget is $300-$500 per pair. I'm looking at some Focal but not sure if they'll work or offering the correct impedance especially for the front doors.
If you have to do it over again, would you still go with your setup for the front/rear door drivers, A pillar and rear door tweeters ? What would y'all suggest and recommend ?

Go with Audible Physics components, had them in my TLX Aspec after swapping the stock ELS speakers and I’m still mad to this day I traded the car with the speakers installed. They sounded amazing after cleaning the signal with a DSP

 

[actingbusy]

I stand by my posts - 2ohm front doors, 4ohm front tweeter, 1ohm sub replacement are where you get the most for your buck. I really should do some sound deadening in the doors, been a while but I think I only did the trunk and sub area.

@actingbusy Any idea on what ohm the ELS stuff is? I could see how they could be a good and easy swap assuming they use 2ohm front doors drivers. Haven’t heard the ELS but folks do say the Acura sounds better stock vs FL5.

I had to do the rear doors as well as I could hear the crap sound from back there too but you may be less sensitive. I didn’t find upgrading the center channel to be an improvement and the rear pillars as I have stated are 110% worthless.

If you are in the Miami area I would be happy to demo, I go to some of the car shows once weather is cooler too.

The ELS system and BOSE both have the identical ohm ratings. Seems like only the 2 ohm drivers are the front doors. They also show watt ratings of 20 watts per driver. More information than what BOSE stamped on their crappy drivers at least.

And to be clear, the biggest improvement with the ELS speakers is that they don’t distort at full volume as to where the BOSE stock speakers sounded like they had ripped the foam surround at anything past 3/4 max volume. They are a little punchier than the stocks though.

If anyone is looking to just gain volume and loudness, I’d suggest a set of hybrid 6.5 drivers with the horn tweeter built in. Same stuff used on ATVs and Harley’s. They are obnoxiously loud and most options are designed to be ran off of factory head units. I plugged in a set just for kicks since I had them laying around in the garage and the door panels were already off. It drowns out every other speaker in the car and well the Civic sound stage is already heavily biased towards the front seats but they are loud AF. So if you’re into the windows rolled down full blast look at me volume, then go that route.

Me personally, I prefer sound quality over loudness.

 

[Mikity]

Go with Audible Physics components, had them in my TLX Aspec after swapping the stock ELS speakers and I’m still mad to this day I traded the car with the speakers installed. They sounded amazing after cleaning the signal with a DSP

Thanks for the suggestion. They look great but they're not 2 OHMS for the front doors though...

@Icehawk
Can you show me a link of where you're able to get the CDT ES-6.2 for the front doors ?
I'm having a hard time trying to find them and not a lot of places carry them.
Thanks!

 

[actingbusy]

Thanks for the suggestion. They look great but they're not 2 OHMS for the front doors though...

@Icehawk
Can you show me a link of where you're able to get the CDT ES-6.2 for the front doors ?
I'm having a hard time trying to find them and not a lot of places carry them.
Thanks!

I had the link saved from my recent search.


https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/refurbished/refurbished.php

 

[Mikity]

I had the link saved from my recent search.


https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/refurbished/refurbished.php

Thanks bro!

 

[Mikity]

So the CDT ES-6.2 is 6.7IN, should be OK for the front doors to fit ?
ES-6.2 Cast Fiber Glass Midwoofer, 2 ohms
6.7” Audiophile Mid-woofer, 2 ohms

 

[actingbusy]

Thanks bro!

Keep us posted

So the CDT ES-6.2 is 6.7IN, should be OK for the front doors to fit ?
ES-6.2 Cast Fiber Glass Midwoofer, 2 ohms
6.7” Audiophile Mid-woofer, 2 ohms

Yea just make sure you use a speaker adapter. Example below. I used the ones from Crutchfield initially but they both work and you can see where it says up to 6.7 on the adapter rings and a plus is that you get the wiring adapters as well.

https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Mounting-2008-2020-2005-2019/dp/B08PQDCVQH

 

[Mikity]

Keep us posted


Yea just make sure you use a speaker adapter. Example below. I used the ones from Crutchfield initially but they both work and you can see where is says up to 6.7 on the adapter rings plus you get the wiring adapters as well.

https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Mounting-2008-2020-2005-2019/dp/B08PQDCVQH

AWESOME, thank you sir!

 

[11thgensiguy]

@Icehawk can you clarify a bit for me.

I am only seeing an ES-6 option, not an ES-6.2. Are these two different speakers, just want to make sure i grab the right ones.

Sponsored