*The FL5 Track Junkie Thread*

[GWonder]

Data point. -2.7 was not enough. -3.6 pretty much did the same as in your pic. I have oem suspension with camber ball joint. Not able to get -3.0 to -3.3 with the supplied plates. So as a compromise I just put the fronts in the back at around the half way point. Since the rear does the opposite.

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[Rexpelagi]

Data point. -2.7 was not enough. -3.6 pretty much did the same as in your pic. I have oem suspension with camber ball joint. Not able to get -3.0 to -3.3 with the supplied plates. So as a compromise I just put the fronts in the back at around the half way point. Since the rear does the opposite.

Thanks for the feedback. I agree you can rotate front to rear to help balance it (which I did do last year which helped), however I've switched to 285f/255r (instead of 285f/285r), so the front wear is more important (and more critically, I need better corner exit performance).

 

[MooMoo]

Data point. -2.7 was not enough. -3.6 pretty much did the same as in your pic. I have oem suspension with camber ball joint. Not able to get -3.0 to -3.3 with the supplied plates. So as a compromise I just put the fronts in the back at around the half way point. Since the rear does the opposite.

-2.7 was max with ball joints and top hat pushed all the way?

@rex this will be good to know when you lower and do atlanta. I never heard much issues with big front camber on rwd, hell a friend had to run -4 at a track or his tires lasted a day. Luckily you got camber plates so you can dial this nicely

 

[Rexpelagi]

-2.7 was max with ball joints and top hat pushed all the way?

@rex this will be good to know when you lower and do atlanta. I never heard much issues with big front camber on rwd, hell a friend had to run -4 at a track or his tires lasted a day. Luckily you got camber plates so you can dial this nicely

I talked with an FK8 guy and he had the same experience I did (and I guess that @GWonder did), and he ended up closer to -2.5°. It makes sense, given that the poor fronts have to do anything, and with my extra power I fight it more than last year (although others in here have extra power too). However, I know some people run -3.5° to -4° on both the FK8 and the FL5, so it may be a driving style issue too.

 

[m3bs]

I’m at about 3.2 degrees in front with pins removed and offset ball joints. Zero front toe. I was pretty pleased with the wear after 115 miles at CMP on this set of stock size CR-S. I have a mild track oriented tune.

 

[ProjectDD]

I'm running -2.5 degrees up front which clearly isn't enough. This was my front left tire after two track days. I will probably go to -3.0 degrees up front before my next track day.

 

[siwelnosaj]

Massive results during track testing yesterday!

Dual oil cooler set up is working and working well. Still need to make a couple of small adjustments on fitment and finalize brackets, but given yesterday's results with the prototype, it showed it's ready to perform. Hopefully I can get these adjustments made in the next few weeks and officially put the kit up for sale. Best part is you can't even see that there's oil coolers on the car, OEM+. I'll share pictures when it's ready for sale.

Testing was done in 2 parts. Saturday ran with no oil coolers, no cooling plate, OEM radiator. Sunday I added the oil coolers and later the cooling plate. Ambient temps were low at 62°, but this testing was about relative performance, 1 for 1. Oil temps were measured using a physical sensor added into the oil pan (post engine and pre oil coolers so it's at its hottest). Coolant was measured using the OEM sensor in the head.

On Saturday to create a baseline, the car was run in OEM cooling form (OEM radiator, OEM under tray, no oil coolers) I got the car to the limit with a peak oil temp of 290° and coolant up to 249°. This was in a session where I had my last 5 laps averaging 1:55.66 on the new Buttonwillow "The Circuit".

Sunday with the oil coolers added, peak temps dropped to 255° for oil and 219° for coolant. In this session I had the last 5 average 1:55.21. A giant 35° improvement in post engine oil temps, and 30° in coolant temps!

When the cooling plate was added, peak temps dropped again with oil at 249° and coolant down to 206°. Last 5 laps averaging 1:54.41. Another drop of 6° for oil, and 13° for coolant!

I experienced zero aero issues with the cooling plate added, I achieved my highest top speeds and highest lateral Gs with it on the car, 128.4 mph and 1.46 G respectively.

I will be returning to The Circuit in 2 weeks to run the WOT spec triple pass radiator and transmission cooler and I'm hopeful ambient temps will be in the 80s or 90s to show that the whole suite of cooling items collectively can get the job done in the heat!

Once I've finalized everything on the FL5 I will be working on releasing the kit for the DE5 and FK8. All 3 cars will have the same modifications available to them.

 

[m3bs]

Is that coolant temp reading the same as indicated on the LogR screen?

 

[siwelnosaj]

Is that coolant temp reading the same as indicated on the LogR screen?

Yes

 

[GWonder]

-2.7 was max with ball joints and top hat pushed all the way?

@rex this will be good to know when you lower and do atlanta. I never heard much issues with big front camber on rwd, hell a friend had to run -4 at a track or his tires lasted a day. Luckily you got camber plates so you can dial this nicely

The ball joint have 3 positions -2.7 is the mid postion. My subframe is not centered so I have to use the top hats to match side to side camber, not much room to play with after that.

 

[Club Version]

The ball joint have 3 positions -2.7 is the mid postion. My subframe is not centered so I have to use the top hats to match side to side camber, not much room to play with after that.

I just got a set of J’s Racing ball joints and went with the max setting. It came out to -4 even with the strut pins removed. It feels good so far but waiting for my next track day to see how it feels and what it does to the tires.

 

[J1Avs]

@Rexpelagi -- I run -3.55* and don't have the inner wear like this. What is your toe looking like?

 

[Tougefl5]

If only you had this 8 months ago when I bought my PWR track spec... Lol.

Any idea how much "moar better" this is vs. the PWR single pass track spec radiator? I don't really have cooling issues so far (I've been peaking around 210-215°F after 15min or so), but I haven't run in the heat of the summer yet.

How has your experience been with PWR radiator so far?
I'm about to order the same one. I don't need triple pass. Do you have the intercooler also?

 

[Rexpelagi]

@Rexpelagi -- I run -3.55* and don't have the inner wear like this. What is your toe looking like?

I've set toe to 0, or as close as I can with plates - it's less than 1/16" total toe out right now up front.

 

[Rexpelagi]

How has your experience been with PWR radiator so far?
I'm about to order the same one. I don't need triple pass. Do you have the intercooler also?

At this time I don't see a need for the triple pass (although I fully believe it's more effective) as I've not had excessively high ECTs. Last year with just the PWR track spec radiator, HEL oil cooler, and the Acuity reverse flow hoses I was usually peaking around 215-220°F, and if I ran the interior heat it would bring it back down. This was with the stock FMIC.

This year, so far, with the PRL FMIC, I've been in the same range. At TNiA for the one session I was able to do I was running 210°F or under with the same cooling setup listed above, PRL FMIC, and @siwelnosaj 's cooling plate in ~75°F ambient (which was the first event trying the cooling plate out), but I haven't had the current cooling setup + the PRL FMIC in summer heat yet, although I'm sure that's coming.

All temps above were also still with the factory hood vent rain guard in place. I should add, I did put about a bottle (12oz) of water wetter in when I installed everything (the rest of the coolant is factory Honda 50/50 coolant) - theoretically that's helping too, although not sure how much.

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