Need to push the clutch all the way to the floor?

[xpeng]

I didn't drive manual almost 30 years. I don't remember I push the clutch all the way down to floor at that time.
so do I need to push the clutch all the way to the floor? Or it's OK as long as I can change gear?
What I found is, on this FL5 I can't move the stick out of a gear without push the clutch to some point. I could do that 30 years ago. Does this mean modern cars having some build-in protection for the transmission?

Update, thanks for all replies, even I got different opinions. What I understand is, pushing clutch is to disengage engine and transmission. The touch point should be somewhere in the middle when the clutch on floor and all released. There's no need to press clutch all the way down to floor as long as it pass the touch point, which means disengaged already.

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[katch922]

I’m no expert, but I push the clutch all the way in. In logR you can actually see the clutch press percentage, not that you’d be looking at it while driving, but it is pretty neat.

 

[Gansan]

You need generally push the clutch in to pull the stick out of gear, but technically it's possible to do it by taking the pressure off the gearbox by letting go of the gas gently. This is not a good idea in general because you're going to risk stressing out the synchros.

You should try to push the clutch all the way down when shifting if you can because that's the best way to guarantee there's no drag on the clutch while you're shifting. If you press 90% down and you can shift, it might feel fine but there's a chance your synchros are having to fight against the dragging clutch and they'll wear out faster. The FK8 had an issue where the clutch was not adjusted correctly from the factory and was dragging a bit. A lot of people had to adjust it themselves.

Modern transmissions don't have any additional protection than old ones except for electronic lockouts in reverse or Porsche has one for 7th gear. It could be that your car from 30 years ago had a worn clutch so the transmission could fight it and get out of gear. Hard to say.

 

[AZCWTypeR]

I remember driving American cars from the '60's and '70's where the clutch engaged right at the top of the travel. I've owned Honda's since the '80's and the clutches normally engaged right off the floor, to the point of compressing the carpet pad a bit when new.
If you slack the power and rev match (near perfectly) any manual transmission I've driven can be shifted without using the clutch. It's tough on the gear dogs if not perfect, but I've known guys who made it home with the clutch not working (disengaging).

 

[FL5golfer]

It's always a good habit to push clutch all the way to the floor. It's a guarantee that the clutch will be fully disengaged before shifting. This also helps me shift faster, just stomp it on the floor and shift.

 

[blayed]

I should do a full write up on this one day but Honda has had this tendency over the years to have gear grind in FWD manual cars. There is considerable discussion about clutch master cylinder (CMC) design or shifter cables on civicX forums and others.

On my FK8 I had significant gear grind that never went away. I tried everything. As soon as I switched to the FL5 It went away completely. But one thing that I had to learn on the FK8 was to press the clutch fully and give the car a little pause in the 1-2 shift. I think it’s an essential practice for a performance FWD car.

To me it makes sense that in any FWD manual system, because you use shifter cables to change the gears, there is a little bit of “slop” in the system. Coupled with a suboptimal CMC (designed for economy cars), you really can’t get around it.

 

[FL5golfer]

I take time with my 1-2 shift too. Learned my lesson after shifting too fast which caused the grind. These cars aren't meant to launch anyways, more of a track oriented car.

 

[MooMoo]

as someone said you want to make sure the clutch fully disengages, this happens somewhere near the end of pushing in the pedal but not right where it bottoms out most likely so technically you don't have to push it in all the way but since you really don't know where it is thats probably the best way. Not sure about on the type R but common in BMWs to get a clutch stop spacer so that the clutch stops is closer in so become shorter to push the clutch all the way in, maybe it exists in this platform too but I don't see an issue in just pushing the clutch all the way in as is.

 

[xpeng]

Thanks for all replies, even I got different opinions. What I understand is, pushing clutch is to disengage engine and transmission. The touch point should be somewhere in the middle when the clutch on floor and all released. There's no need to press clutch all the way down to floor as long as it pass the touch point, which means disengaged already.

 

[atucker80]

It's pretty simple to test where the clutch is fully disengaged. Put the car in 1st gear and slowly release the clutch while your foot is on the brake. When the clutch makes contact with the flywheel the RPM will start to drop.

but.... as others have said why not just push it to the floor and not worry about it.

 

[xpeng]

It's pretty simple to test where the clutch is fully disengaged. Put the car in 1st gear and slowly release the clutch while your foot is on the brake. When the clutch makes contact with the flywheel the RPM will start to drop.

but.... as others have said why not just push it to the floor and not worry about it.

I only can change gears when the clutch is pressed. If the clutch is smart enough to ensure disengaged, it will be much easier and faster to find/reach the friction point after I put in a gear, because only need to lift foot a little. If I push all the way to floor, the friction point will be after a longer clutch release, and I'm not clear after release how much. Maybe I didn't drive the car long enough, still break in.

 

[menikmati]

If I push all the way to floor, the friction point will be after a longer clutch release, and I'm not clear after release how much. Maybe I didn't drive the car long enough, still break in.

That's where muscle memory comes in. After a while you can just basically let the clutch out quickly to the friction point and work from there.

 

[xpeng]

That's where muscle memory comes in. After a while you can just basically let the clutch out quickly to the friction point and work from there.

And pressing the clutch all the way down every time makes me feel tired. Remember driving manual car 30 years ago was fun, but now getting old, sometime hesitate to drive this car, especially during rush hour.

 

[Gansan]

I only can change gears when the clutch is pressed. If the clutch is smart enough to ensure disengaged, it will be much easier and faster to find/reach the friction point after I put in a gear, because only need to lift foot a little. If I push all the way to floor, the friction point will be after a longer clutch release, and I'm not clear after release how much. Maybe I didn't drive the car long enough, still break in.

That's interesting, you're asking for a computer controlled clutch. Well ours is only foot controlled, but hopefully you'll get used to it after a few months.

A note on the friction point--even if you feel where the clutch starts to connect and move the car, remember that it's connecting before that actually. It's just that it hasn't connected enough yet to move the 3000 pound car. So press as deep as you can just for safety.

 

[menikmati]

And pressing the clutch all the way down every time makes me feel tired. Remember driving manual car 30 years ago was fun, but now getting old, sometime hesitate to drive this car, especially during rush hour.

IMO if that is the case then I don’t think a manual transmission vehicle is in your best interest unless you work on your leg strength.

You shouldn’t have to compromise comfort to enjoy a car if there isn’t something that just ergonomically/physically doesn’t work for you.

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