Torque Steer

Henlin

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What are you guys doing to assist with the Torque Steer on the FL5. I came from an E46 M3 which was a rear wheel drive. I understand that its the faster front wheel drive vehicle, but even with some spirited runs here n there, I find my steering wheel pulling when I push it. Would getting 275 up front help?
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What are you guys doing to assist with the Torque Steer on the FL5. I came from an E46 M3 which was a rear wheel drive. I understand that its the faster front wheel drive vehicle, but even with some spirited runs here n there, I find my steering wheel pulling when I push it. Would getting 275 up front help?
Instead of going bigger tire I would spend time learning the car. FWD behaves way different so throttle input should be carefully modulated coming out of corners to maximize grip and reduce torque steer
 

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Exactly what he said. I had a Focus ST for 5 years and had to learn all the nuances of handling a front drive car with a massive amount of torque steer. The CTR isn't even in the same hemisphere of torque steer as the ST had.
 

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What’s nice about the FL5 (maybe even FK8 acts the same) but you can mash the throttle even in the corners and it doesn’t jump into understeer like every other FWD car I had in the past
 

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I don't really notice too much tq steer on this car, or maybe I'm just used to it now?
 


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Not an FL5 owner, but I'm surprised with this post. OP, have you added wheel spacers or changed your wheels?

I don't really notice any torque steer on my FK8. On the Si - much less torque - I have to be careful with the steering wheel when pushing it since we added spacers.

What’s nice about the FL5 (maybe even FK8 acts the same) but you can mash the throttle even in the corners and it doesn’t jump into understeer like every other FWD car I had in the past
That's because you're not at the limit of grip. Otherwise it's just physics, it will understeer. The understeer control assist on the VSA will cut throttle in such scenario. Other cars get to this limit a lot earlier indeed.
 

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Any modification you do to the front end will actually introduce further torque steer as Honda has already engineered the front end to have as little of it as possible. Wider tyres will not help.
I noticed a touch more torque steer after I installed the camber adjustable ball joints as by doing so puts the scrub radius out, same with running wheels of lesser offset etc
Just something to get used to - I always have two hands on the steering wheel on hard exits :D
 
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Henlin

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Not an FL5 owner, but I'm surprised with this post. OP, have you added wheel spacers or changed your wheels?

I don't really notice any torque steer on my FK8. On the Si - much less torque - I have to be careful with the steering wheel when pushing it since we added spacers.



That's because you're not at the limit of grip. Otherwise it's just physics, it will understeer. The understeer control assist on the VSA will cut throttle in such scenario. Other cars get to this limit a lot earlier indeed.
I noticed Torque steer with or witout spacers. I now have 15mm spacers all around on stock suspension. I mostly feel torque steer when trying to accelerate when passing a car. Yes I have 1 hand on the wheel. But its enough for me to write about it. Past cars I owned did not feel as if I will spin out
 

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Torque steer is slightly present especially when accelerating straight on poor quality roads. It’s actually worse with more aggressive offset wheels or spacers. The factory 19” wheels are actually really good at minimizing it.
 


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Henlin

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That bad?? Doesn't seem right.
Maybe its my alignment from factory. Curious, is your steering wheel slightly crooked when driving straight. I heard they all come like that from factory.
 

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Learn the car. Don't expect it to behave like an M3.

If you find you just can't adjust, it's your limitation, not the car. Go look at a G87 or Supra.
 

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I know what real torque steer is - I once test drove the infamous but fun Mazda Speed 3 which put 280 lb feet of torque through the front wheels - without benefit of the tech Honda uses- and it tried to literally change lanes. That is torque steer.

So relatively speaking, the FK8 and FL5 have minimal if any torque steer.

I am able to accelerate out of turns easily, but then I am used to the car. On hard acceleration in a straight line it still doesn't really pull hard one way or the other - but you will get some wheel slip of course. Even a rwd or awd car ideally needs two hands on the wheel for a hard pull. If your wheel is not straight - that is another issue.

The joy of these cars is learning how to extract the most from them.

Owner tip:
All cars are sensitive to tire pressure. The Type R much, much more so.
I have an electric tire pump with a digital gauge I rely on, plugs into the car. The factory TPMS is damn near worthless. If your tires are low, but close in pressure to each other - no warning light. So you have to check often, and be in tune to the way the car feels when it is dialed in.
For about $ 30-40, that tire pump is the best investment I have made.
Sure, tire stores will check and adjust your tire pressure for free. If you are near one, and they are open, and you don't mind waiting, and you are okay with driving miles on underinflated tires to get there. So yeah, you need something that plugs into your car and can get it done.
 

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I know what real torque steer is - I once test drove the infamous but fun Mazda Speed 3 which put 280 lb feet of torque through the front wheels - without benefit of the tech Honda uses- and it tried to literally change lanes. That is torque steer.

So relatively speaking, the FK8 and FL5 have minimal if any torque steer.

I am able to accelerate out of turns easily, but then I am used to the car. On hard acceleration in a straight line it still doesn't really pull hard one way or the other - but you will get some wheel slip of course. Even a rwd or awd car ideally needs two hands on the wheel for a hard pull. If your wheel is not straight - that is another issue.

The joy of these cars is learning how to extract the most from them.

Owner tip:
All cars are sensitive to tire pressure. The Type R much, much more so.
I have an electric tire pump with a digital gauge I rely on, plugs into the car. The factory TPMS is damn near worthless. If your tires are low, but close in pressure to each other - no warning light. So you have to check often, and be in tune to the way the car feels when it is dialed in.
For about $ 30-40, that tire pump is the best investment I have made.
Sure, tire stores will check and adjust your tire pressure for free. If you are near one, and they are open, and you don't mind waiting, and you are okay with driving miles on underinflated tires to get there. So yeah, you need something that plugs into your car and can get it done.
What is optimal tire pressure?
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