Rear Pad replacement at 9k?

[chemreac]

I have the car in for tires/alignment, and just had a request to approve rear pad replacement, I have 30-40% remaining.

I only have 9k on the clock, and I am old I dont drive very spirited anymore, no track, shit barely even get highway miles. I did see that they are set up for the rear to handle a lot of the duty, so I had 2 questions:

1. The dealer was $670 for rear pads, is that normal or does my dealer suck and is over charging. I had read some threads back when I bought it last year, basically warning to not replace them unless you own whatever magic tool is needed. So lemme know what some of yall are paying at the dealer.

2. pad suggestions that maybe even cost more but you have had a better experience for either longevity or less dust, performance, or why you chose them.

3. I would assume most shops can do the work, like I am gonna call my place and ask, so not all that important, but if you had a good experience with a national spot, or figured a way to do them ourselves without costing us a tow and even more money to fix the fuck up lol

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[AspecR]

1). $670 for rear pads is madness for rear pads only. The rear pads can be done manually but its kind of a pain without the OBD tool to put it in service mode. I'm certain a shop will do it for way less.

2).Hawk HPS, Dixcel Type M or Type Z and Akebono ProACT have great alternatives to the stock pads that will outlast the OEM pads.

 

[MoodySara]

$670 is robbery. The OEM pads cost around $70-80.
You can buy the 'magic tool' for around $50-60.
I use the Autel MaxiAP AP200.

 

[chemreac]

Thank you so much for the response, i figured it was complete robbery, also thank you for the name of the tool, thats a big fucking help. Im just gonna wait for some suggestions and grab a set and the tool, put it on the list with the front pipe, down pipe, intercooler and pipping, my buddy has a lift in his home garage and get them done. this information has made my day so much better!

 

[Pekingduck]

I think it how aggressive you turn. The brake vectoring really kicks in. I was also surprise how fast the rear pads wear out so fast. For the pads in general I end up doing it myself save me a lot of money.

 

[chemreac]

I am glad I asked, I am finding out some great info, while i dont race around or have a needfor high speed stops flooring it red to red, I DO take corners pretty hard just because it does it so so damn well.

 

[Nothing]

$670 is robbery. The OEM pads cost around $70-80.
You can buy the 'magic tool' for around $50-60.
I use the Autel MaxiAP AP200.

Where are you getting rear pads for $80, or are you thinking of aftermarket pads? Dealer online price is $190 and other online sources look to be $142.

 

[MoodySara]

Where are you getting rear pads for $80, or are you thinking of aftermarket pads? Dealer online price is $190 and other online sources look to be $142.

My mistake.
I had both an FK8 and an FL5. That price was for a set (43022-TGH-A01) I put on the FK8.
I thought the pads were the same. Apparently, the FL5 uses a more expensive set (43022-T60-A01). No idea why.

 

[cryptolime]

buy an Xtool Anyscan A30M. it's a bidirectional scan tool that's under $150. You can use that to do the brakes yourself. I can't imagine having to replace the pads that early though, especially the rears. I have 70k miles on my Si and I still have over 50% pad material remaining...on the fronts. the rears are like 80%.

i guess if you're driving very aggressively you could wear the pads out the quick. But how are the fronts? usually they wear out first.

 

[Nothing]

buy an Xtool Anyscan A30M. it's a bidirectional scan tool that's under $150. You can use that to do the brakes yourself. I can't imagine having to replace the pads that early though, especially the rears. I have 70k miles on my Si and I still have over 50% pad material remaining...on the fronts. the rears are like 80%.

i guess if you're driving very aggressively you could wear the pads out the quick. But how are the fronts? usually they wear out first.

My fronts are probably 60%, my rears are closer to 25%. Same experience on my gen6 outback, I replaced rears at 10% (oops) and fronts still had 50%+. I'm thinking it's overactive stability control. I don't drive aggressively with either.

In older civics, I could probably go through two front sets before needing to change the rears, but I didn't have a backup camera or other modern tech.

When I changed the outback pads I just had the brake off, unplugged the epb motor and wound the piston with a normal tool, and after reconnected and cycled the epb 5x and it was fine. Was planning to do the same with the civic, since I don't have a scan tool handy.

 

[Nothing]

My mistake.
I had both an FK8 and an FL5. That price was for a set (43022-TGH-A01) I put on the FK8.
I thought the pads were the same. Apparently, the FL5 uses a more expensive set (43022-T60-A01). No idea why.

Aw man, was hoping you knew a secret source. HAHA

 

[Evox787]

You’ve probably already gotten your answer, but I replaced my rear pads myself at around 8k–10k miles. While I was at it, I also installed De Bronze Wunderland Racing bushings for the brake calipers because my original pads were wearing unevenly.

I switched everything over to Akebono pads since I daily drive my car, and honestly, the brake dust isn’t anywhere near as bad as the OEM pads. For reference, the part numbers are:
Front: ACT1001
Rear: ACT1878

I also bought the replacement hardware kit. So far, I’ve logged about 20k miles with no issues.

For the caliper service mode, I used the Autel MD806—it was super simple to use. I’d recommend picking up a 7mm Allen hex key, though, because the lower bolt on the driver’s side caliper can’t be removed any other way (at least from all the info I could find).

 

[NeRO_CTR]

Mine lasted 12K miles, spirited drives, in 99% R mode.

Went with new rear DFC rotors and AKEBONO pads from rock auto. $130 shipped, installed them street side with hand tools within the hour. Very easy, members share how it’s done without any scan tools, or entering service mode.

 

[DellaPellegrino]

You’ve probably already gotten your answer, but I replaced my rear pads myself at around 8k–10k miles. While I was at it, I also installed De Bronze Wunderland Racing bushings for the brake calipers because my original pads were wearing unevenly.

I switched everything over to Akebono pads since I daily drive my car, and honestly, the brake dust isn’t anywhere near as bad as the OEM pads. For reference, the part numbers are:
Front: ACT1001
Rear: ACT1878

I also bought the replacement hardware kit. So far, I’ve logged about 20k miles with no issues.

For the caliper service mode, I used the Autel MD806—it was super simple to use. I’d recommend picking up a 7mm Allen hex key, though, because the lower bolt on the driver’s side caliper can’t be removed any other way (at least from all the info I could find).

Thanks for the advice, I will keep it in mind.

 

[ThunderPigeon]

Just changed my tires at 8500 miles and checked my rear pads, they need replacement. I drive hard mainly on twisty back roads and I love hitting the on/off ramps hard, so I am not surprised.

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