Clutch Engages Very High

Bandit_TypeR

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I have about 4k miles now on the car. Seems recently the clutch is engaging at the very top of the pedal. Is this normal?
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AZCWTypeR

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Not normal. Most Honda clutches grab close to the floor. I have about 7k miles and my clutch grab point hasn't changed.

I'm easy on car clutches, having changed a couple in used car purchases and knowing what a pain they are to change (though not expensive doing it yourself).

My drag race starts are reserved for motorcycles (keeping engine in narrow power-band), where clutch parts are cheap and fairly easy to change.
 

JTypeR

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I feel the same way about my clutch, I only have 1k km on my car so far but for some reason, it feels like I have to bring the clutch pedal high before it bites. So it might just be how the car is but hoping someone with more experience with type r has thoughts.
 


Bootyfett69

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Mine feels like it engages at about 65-70%

Definitely more towards the top.
 

nawfoo

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Mines at the top but its more comfortable that way. Some members here delete the clutch delay valve.
 

lando

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Mine is at the top as well. It was the first thing I noticed when I test drove the car. Took me a little bit to get use to.
 

Amm5890

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Yeah. I put the clutch % toggle on the logr screen and mine just starts to engage around 50% of the clutch travel. Full slip around 40%.
 

DastardlyDave

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While I had mine at the Dealer to get the Alcantara accessory wheel installed I asked about that. The service advisor spoke to several techs who said it was normal. /shrug
 


powerofdreams

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Yeah. I put the clutch % toggle on the logr screen and mine just starts to engage around 50% of the clutch travel. Full slip around 40%.
How do you display the clutch engagement in LogR? I only see options for braking, acceleration, etc.
 

That_Typahh

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I have about 4k miles now on the car. Seems recently the clutch is engaging at the very top of the pedal. Is this normal?
this past week i have noticed that my bite point has gotten very high to the point where the it engages your foot is already almost coming off very weird my car is at 29k km and clutch was changed on 10k km because previous owner didnt drive it good, but i heard if you bleed the clutch or readjust the clutch from inside the cabin will work but im not sure what the problem is
 

zumbooruk

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One of first mods I made was to adjust the clutch to my liking.

I adjusted both the bottom "plunger" that goes into the slave cylinder to lower the engagement point (which increased free play at the top) but then I adjusted the top bolt to lower the clutch pedal height at rest and reduce free play at top. this way, clutch pedal at rest is not as high as OEM, and pedal travel overall is shortened.

I then added a clutch pedal stopper (DIY, few dollars vs $50+, see below) to prevent over stroke.

The way I have it adjusted has minimal free play at the top, and pedal travel stops shortly after the clutch disengages.

Once adjusted to my liking, I have not noticed any change in about 4,000 miles.

note that in an attempt to reduce free play, I over adjusted to the point that the clutch started to slip under high torque without me even touching the pedal. and then adjusted it back to lower the engagement point.

you can do the same and lower the engagement point.

one thing that I notice through the multiple adjustments, was that the LogR clutch position always showed between 0-100 even after I shortened the travel and added the clutch stopper (i.e. lowered the resting point, and raised the fully depressed point). I expected it to read 5-95% yet it still reads 0-100. clutch engagement is still at about 50%

there are commercial clutch pedal stoppers:

This JSR pedal stop kit allows a certain amount of stroke on the diaphragm while avoiding over-engagement or gear lock out on high rpm shifts. Anyone that has driven a stick shift car knows when you power shift or shift fast you should always half pedal to allow for smoother seamless shifts. When you slam the pedal to the floor it over extends the diaphragm of the clutch system almost making it seem like you are not pressing the clutch in (reversing the process). The reason for this is the clutch is designed and operates on a certain amount of stroke or allowed throw. When you pass that threshold the pressure plate begins to close as if its not being activated. This kit will limit your clutch slave throw allowing super quick and effortless shifts.
https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-fl5-de5-clutch-pedal-stop-kit

Blackhawk makes same/similar stopper:

Preventing poor disengagement due to clutch overstroke and This is a clutch pedal stopper for adjusting clutch stroke. The seat position will also be improved by installing it.
https://www.blackhawkjapan.com/collections/body-reinforcement/products/rigid-aa1020-2


But being a cheapskate, I could not get myself to pay $54 (w/shipping) for one of the above clutch pedal stoppers, so I got this from Amazon for $0.80 per disc:

https://www.amazon.com/PATIKIL-Rubber-Washers-Anti-Vibration-Bushings/dp/B0F248XGZ4/

and used 3M double sided tape to mount it onto the OEM clutch pedal stopper.

one advantage (at least for me) is that it is softer rubber vs hard plastic, and does not have the hard click sound when the clutch pedal hits it. (yet some people like the tactile click sound...)
 
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IntegraKat

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The engagement point has always been noticeably high for me in newer Honda, first in my 10th gen Si and now in the Type R. It’s not like my old Honda

I got used to it and actually don’t mind it, and can shift without pressing the pedal to the floor
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