AspecR

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Any street/track feedback on the Z-type? I’m considering ordering a set instead of the CSG CPs. Seems like these could be a similar but much more cost-effective option.
First impressions, they feel like OEM initially til you get into the pedal, then you’ll notice the improved stopping power. They’re very sensitive to proper break-in procedure, so take time to bed them in properly. The reduced dust is good but I was hoping for less dust mainly because I have white wheels, and they do squeal from time to time but a good stomp will get rid of the squealing.

They also seem to hold up a lot better than OEM, had to swap my OEM pads at 10k miles but I have almost 7k miles on the Dixcels and they have more than half the pad left.
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Brittania

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First impressions, they feel like OEM initially til you get into the pedal, then you’ll notice the improved stopping power. They’re very sensitive to proper break-in procedure, so take time to bed them in properly. The reduced dust is good but I was hoping for less dust mainly because I have white wheels, and they do squeal from time to time but a good stomp will get rid of the squealing.

They also seem to hold up a lot better than OEM, had to swap my OEM pads at 10k miles but I have almost 7k miles on the Dixcels and they have more than half the pad left.
Are you using dixcel rotors or just the pads. I'm thinking of trying both.
 

AspecR

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Are you using dixcel rotors or just the pads. I'm thinking of trying both.
Just the Type Z pads with OEM rotors, I have zero experience with their rotors, the only replacement rotors I’d probably put on my car is Paragon.
 

daazn

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I went through the Z type in 2 track weekends. They work great but wear too quickly for my taste. I have a set of type RA coming next and maybe go up to the specom after if the RA wears too quickly as well
 

RedlineAddict

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Any commentary on these for the FE1 Si? I assume cooling is worse on those cars so that could change things.
 


Icehawk

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13k miles, 1 track day and my pads F&R are getting down to it. Tires are toast too. Ordered the Dixcel Z pads ($440 for full set) which I hope are a good compromise on performance, cost, and wear.
 

02SilverSiHB

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I didn't want to start a new thread and I tried searching. Quick question on brakes.

Five Months ago I i had project mu pads and SS lines put on. Car stops great, but recently after some spirited driving, I'd say 3 hard pulls and hard breaking, I could feel some serious shudder in the brakes.

Does that sound like typical rotor warp or could it be deposit building up?

If I drive around normal, even if I go at a high speed and slow down it's fine...seems only after hard/hot breaks, multiple times do I get the shudder.
 
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johnny.silva7

johnny.silva7

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I didn't want to start a new thread and I tried searching. Quick question on brakes.

Five Months ago I i had project mu pads and SS lines put on. Car stops great, but recently after some spirited driving, I'd say 3 hard pulls and hard breaking, I could feel some serious shudder in the brakes.

Does that sound like typical rotor warp or could it be deposit building up?

If I drive around normal, even if I go at a high speed and slow down it's fine...seems only after hard/hot breaks, multiple times do I get the shudder.
Did you bed the pads properly? If not, that's more than likely the issue.

On a relatable note, I'm running a set of Project Mu 999's, and had a similar experience on the track on 2 separate occasions. I got bad shudder in the first session of each day, but none after. They've been bedded properly so it's a mystery to me.
 

AspecR

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I didn't want to start a new thread and I tried searching. Quick question on brakes.

Five Months ago I i had project mu pads and SS lines put on. Car stops great, but recently after some spirited driving, I'd say 3 hard pulls and hard breaking, I could feel some serious shudder in the brakes.

Does that sound like typical rotor warp or could it be deposit building up?

If I drive around normal, even if I go at a high speed and slow down it's fine...seems only after hard/hot breaks, multiple times do I get the shudder.
Not necessarily a warped rotor, if it only happens from high speed stops or repeated heavy use then the rotors probably just have some hot spots on them that a re-bedding might be able to help with.

These stock rotors even though they are 2-piece aren't actually that high quality especially when compared to what comes stock on some German cars like the MKv R32.
 

02SilverSiHB

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Not necessarily a warped rotor, if it only happens from high speed stops or repeated heavy use then the rotors probably just have some hot spots on them that a re-bedding might be able to help with.

These stock rotors even though they are 2-piece aren't actually that high quality especially when compared to what comes stock on some German cars like the MKv R32.
Ah, thank you. I've thought about upgrading them but wasn't sure it was worth it. Starting to think maybe I should.
 


02SilverSiHB

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Did you bed the pads properly? If not, that's more than likely the issue.

On a relatable note, I'm running a set of Project Mu 999's, and had a similar experience on the track on 2 separate occasions. I got bad shudder in the first session of each day, but none after. They've been bedded properly so it's a mystery to me.
I had them installed by a ship here. I usually do it myself but was lazy lol.
 
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johnny.silva7

johnny.silva7

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Updated: Added Pagid brake pads & pad size illustrations.
 

T41WN.1

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B16B

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Anyone have experience with the Spoon street or Mugen street brake pads? Low brake dust? My MF10's are getting f'd by the OEM brake pads.
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