992 GT3 vs. FL5 Type R

[g0al3d]

@g0al3d / @PNEUMA - the acuity shifter did pop up on my radar as well. I already think the stock shifter is fantastic, any insights on the additional feel from the acuity shifter? Does it shorten the throws even more and make it more notchy?

Ok so I finally got this installed with the pedal relocation kit and both are chef kiss worthy mods! Acuity shifter you can dial in to whatever you want and it has better mechanical feel like the GT3 no matter what. Throttle relocation kit on bolt pattern C is freaking perfect for heel toe. I would say both of these are must do mods if you have the means.

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[jcb]

On this note, also put an acuity shifter in....it was 3 hours and not as simple as people might tell you. Not hard, the word to use is "tedious" if you don't want to damage anything and follow all the torque specs, etc. The one clip on the hood in the beginning of the process is a pita...probably would have been easier to remove the hood and get the clip that way..fyi.

Anyway, agree. The shifter makes it equal or better than the stock Porsche one. Both have CAE options of course....

The PRL rear motor mount, to me, is the final step in feel. I really enjoy the "buzz" in the hand it gives you.....feel (some hate NVH so be warned, but this to me is great vibrational information).


The pedal placement gadget is the next step. The autoblip is quite good, and has allowed me to ignore the factory chasm. Thanks for the heads up on this part.

 

[g0al3d]

On this note, also put an acuity shifter in....it was 3 hours and not as simple as people might tell you. Not hard, the word to use is "tedious" if you don't want to damage anything and follow all the torque specs, etc. The one clip on the hood in the beginning of the process is a pita...probably would have been easier to remove the hood and get the clip that way..fyi.

Anyway, agree. The shifter makes it equal or better than the stock Porsche one. Both have CAE options of course....

The PRL rear motor mount, to me, is the final step in feel. I really enjoy the "buzz" in the hand it gives you.....feel (some hate NVH so be warned, but this to me is great vibrational information).


The pedal placement gadget is the next step. The autoblip is quite good, and has allowed me to ignore the factory chasm. Thanks for the heads up on this part.

I put a single mass flywheel on my Golf R and I regretted it almost immediately from a NVH perspective as a daily driven street car...great for the track annoying AF on the street. Car sounded like it was going to explode with the A/C on and was only barely tolerable with it off. Since then I'm pretty gun shy as far as mods that effect NVH for my daily. That said I hear the the Spoon kit (super expensive i know) has very limited NVH and does a good job keeping the engine from bucking like a bronco. Also not sure if you have ever done a lightweight SM flywheel before, but if so, what's the comparison NVH wise between the rear motor mount and that?

 

[jcb]

I put a lwf into a Porsche 911 GT2.....sounded like loose bb's in a coffee can at idle. Did it to handle the tuned increased (a lot) torque and because "race car." Regretted it to be honest but it cost so much to buy and install that I just left it in...it was so tough that it probably would never have worn out even if abused....they make some amazing clutches....be be warned, they can be awful too.

Moving in gear it was fine. Rev matching was much more challenging....I got it, but if I let a naive person, even a PCA instructor, try it they stalled it every time.....agree, not always a great thing. I rarely stalled it but even I did actually stall it - it was like 1/4 the weight of stock (track focused part). Had a CAE shifter too fwiw.


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On the Civic Type R FL5 and NVH:

The Honda Civic Type R comes with a "lighter" weight flywheel from factory relative to the FK8 prior gen. I think they nailed it...no rev hand from my point of view (someone always complains...but see above for what happens if you really remove rev hang...).

Not familiar with the spoon stuff. The PRL motor (rear) mount is noted as barely more "stiff" than stock. It is a 30 minute install at most...just keep the factory one as a reversal of this unit should be easy/fast. I feel the slight vibration in my hands at over 4k rpm....the factory purposely left out a balancing part of the engine they put into the other deployments of the K20C1....that is I think what this vibration is from. Purposeful...just amplified now. Like a 996 GT3 (to me the most raw of all of them).

I love it.

On the move day to day (commuting, etc.), it is smooth...but over 4k you do feel a pleasant "motor" feeling....I like it a lot but I can see where a spouse might notice it.... No issues on my end but others have different situations and thresholds. The PRL rear motor mount may be the "closest to factory" of all of the aftermarket units....so I went with it. I don't plan to remove it or upgrade to something else. It was very well made - got it via TSP.

 

[AspecR]

I put a single mass flywheel on my Golf R and I regretted it almost immediately from a NVH perspective as a daily driven street car...great for the track annoying AF on the street. Car sounded like it was going to explode with the A/C on and was only barely tolerable with it off. Since then I'm pretty gun shy as far as mods that effect NVH for my daily. That said I hear the the Spoon kit (super expensive i know) has very limited NVH and does a good job keeping the engine from bucking like a bronco. Also not sure if you have ever done a lightweight SM flywheel before, but if so, what's the comparison NVH wise between the rear motor mount and that?

I can chime in on the Flywheel and RMM question. My car has a XClutch Stage 1 Sprung Organic Clutch kit and Hasport Street RMM. There is a slight increase in drivetrain NVH but it becomes pretty much imperceptible after a few days. I really only notice a slight difference when driving with the music completely off. The clutch feels like OEM but with a more aggressive engagement.

My car does have Spoon Rigid collars installed which do help to reduce NVH greatly throughout the chassis. To reduce NVH, you should add Spoon Rigid Collars, Spoon Front Stiff Plate or underbody strut braces(I recommend Cusco or Ultra Racing) and Mugen/Yamaha Dampers.

 

[apl360]

Based on C&D Lightning lap times of 2:40.6 and 2:58.8, the CTR is 12% slower than the GT3….. Choose your measuring stick. The one that matters most to me is driving satisfaction in the real world, and given the realities of public roads for most of us, I’ll take the CTR.

Wait a minute! Fl5 was on cup2’s. What tires was the Porsche running?

 

[m3bs]

The GT3 was on Cup 2 R, a significant advantage.

 

[apl360]

The GT3 was on Cup 2 R, a significant advantage.

I figured it wasn’t on all seasons

 

[Mrjustin81]

I figured it wasn’t on all seasons

That would be an interesting comparison. The lap time with all seasons vs good tires lol

 

[g0al3d]

I put a lwf into a Porsche 911 GT2.....sounded like loose bb's in a coffee can at idle. Did it to handle the tuned increased (a lot) torque and because "race car." Regretted it to be honest but it cost so much to buy and install that I just left it in...it was so tough that it probably would never have worn out even if abused....they make some amazing clutches....be be warned, they can be awful too.

Moving in gear it was fine. Rev matching was much more challenging....I got it, but if I let a naive person, even a PCA instructor, try it they stalled it every time.....agree, not always a great thing. I rarely stalled it but even I did actually stall it - it was like 1/4 the weight of stock (track focused part). Had a CAE shifter too fwiw.


----

On the Civic Type R FL5 and NVH:

The Honda Civic Type R comes with a "lighter" weight flywheel from factory relative to the FK8 prior gen. I think they nailed it...no rev hand from my point of view (someone always complains...but see above for what happens if you really remove rev hang...).

Not familiar with the spoon stuff. The PRL motor (rear) mount is noted as barely more "stiff" than stock. It is a 30 minute install at most...just keep the factory one as a reversal of this unit should be easy/fast. I feel the slight vibration in my hands at over 4k rpm....the factory purposely left out a balancing part of the engine they put into the other deployments of the K20C1....that is I think what this vibration is from. Purposeful...just amplified now. Like a 996 GT3 (to me the most raw of all of them).

I love it.

On the move day to day (commuting, etc.), it is smooth...but over 4k you do feel a pleasant "motor" feeling....I like it a lot but I can see where a spouse might notice it.... No issues on my end but others have different situations and thresholds. The PRL rear motor mount may be the "closest to factory" of all of the aftermarket units....so I went with it. I don't plan to remove it or upgrade to something else. It was very well made - got it via TSP.

Regretted it to be honest but it cost so much to buy and install that I just left it in...it was so tough that it probably would never have worn out even if abused.... <- this was 100% the same boat i was in with the Golf R.
Ok so it sounds like the amount of NVH from the motor mount is no where even close to a lightweight flywheel though, that is great to hear. I very much like the flywheel on the type R its really good for a stock unit revs plenty fast and the clutch is fantastic after you remove the restrictor and install a stainless line. I think I will pull the trigger on the Spoon mount kit and let you guys know how it goes (also the rigid collars).

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