FL5 I money shifted twice....

[SP R KiD]

I almost money shifted in my new Si twice in the first few months. I'd recommend installing an Acuity shifter so the shifts are more defined and deliberate. Haven't money shifted since installing.

I mean absolutely no offense by this, but if your recommendation to fix driving/shifting technique is an aftermarket upgrade, I would not suggest doing so. If you're struggling to the point where the basic fundamentals of the car are tricky, you need to improve driving technique before relying on tools to help. The point of this is because if you can drive one manual, another should be easy to pick up on with practice. But if you start relying on aftermarket parts to contain the problem, then you're doomed on the next car or when your mod fails. There are many other reasons but this one sticks out to me as well as just being in tune with your car.

Not that this should be a problem anyway, the OEM shifting capabilities are almost perfect anyway. No one should be struggling shifting from 3-4. I'm not bashing anyone who is either, just saying watch some videos and git gud.

Again, not being a jerk about your comment, but I don't think it's good advice.

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[Bootyfett69]

The FL5 will log an engine over speed code, however it doesn't carry any freeze frame data so you won't know exactly how high rpm it went. But I would say if there's no immediate grenading shortly after the event, you should be in the clear. Be careful next time.

If you take it to Honda they can see engine RPM and the mileage stamp. However, if you do this, it will be permanently logged in their systems and your warranty is voided

Now, can you get dealers who will work with you? Of course, but technically warranty is shot.

I did the same thing and got the ticking sound that someone mentioned here lol I’ve been fine for 7k miles and plenty of redline with no loss of power or the sound getting louder

Dealership did a once over and replaced a rod bearing on cylinder 4 and said my noise was normal.

Doing an oil analysis next oil change and will likely report back here with the findings, if any.

 

[Spart]

I don't think this fits the definition of a money shift (that would be like 4-2 or 5-2), not to mention how did you hit 10k rpm on a 3-2 shift? There's relatively a 1.5-2k diff in rpm for those gears, maybe 9k, but even then you'd have to mechanically do it (ie: rev limiter can't do anything). In either case, you'll only know if there's permanent damage if something happens to the car.

This whole post sounds like a bunch of bologna.

Any time you unintentionally downshift, it can be a money shift if you over-rev the engine. There is no requirement to downshift two gears at a time for an over-rev to happen.

Here's what OP claimed:

The second time was right at the limiter, and idek it sounded horrible, like probably 9.5k-10k rpm it was the worst sound I've ever heard an engine make.

If you run 3rd to limiter and shift to 2nd, your engine will be at 9683 RPM by the math.

RPM 7000, 3rd = 1.529 & 2nd = 2.115. The math simplifies down to (7000 / 1.529) * 2.115 = 9683.

So no, OP's story is entirely plausible based on the math.

@raffifuzza - do you mind taking a picture of the serial number of your car? It's the number on the passenger-side dash under the Type R logo, on the honeycomb grille. That will help us out a lot.

 

[coolnick]

I mean absolutely no offense by this, but if your recommendation to fix driving/shifting technique is an aftermarket upgrade, I would not suggest doing so. If you're struggling to the point where the basic fundamentals of the car are tricky, you need to improve driving technique before relying on tools to help. The point of this is because if you can drive one manual, another should be easy to pick up on with practice. But if you start relying on aftermarket parts to contain the problem, then you're doomed on the next car or when your mod fails. There are many other reasons but this one sticks out to me as well as just being in tune with your car.

Not that this should be a problem anyway, the OEM shifting capabilities are almost perfect anyway. No one should be struggling shifting from 3-4. I'm not bashing anyone who is either, just saying watch some videos and git gud.

Again, not being a jerk about your comment, but I don't think it's good advice.

Exactly this, do not buy parts to fix driving mistakes as this will only reinforce said mistakes. And again I agree with the message of no offense to chopsuey. I don't doubt that shifter feels amazing and has a range of benefits, but OP needs to think about what they are doing when they are shifting. There's a time and a place for everything kids, and that's called college. Or in this case, autox/track days.

 

[raffifuzza]

Any time you unintentionally downshift, it can be a money shift if you over-rev the engine. There is no requirement to downshift two gears at a time for an over-rev to happen.

Here's what OP claimed:



If you run 3rd to limiter and shift to 2nd, your engine will be at 9683 RPM by the math.

RPM 7000, 3rd = 1.529 & 2nd = 2.115. The math simplifies down to (7000 / 1.529) * 2.115 = 9683.

So no, OP's story is entirely plausible based on the math.

@raffifuzza - do you mind taking a picture of the serial number of your car? It's the number on the passenger-side dash under the Type R logo, on the honeycomb grille. That will help us out a lot.

Why? So you can tell Honda and void my warranty? Are you with them??? Nah jk, It’s 40057.

 

[Spart]

Why? So you can tell Honda and void my warranty? Are you with them??? Nah jk, It’s 40057.

Post a pic of your real one. FL5's don't go that high yet.

Honda already knows, the telematics unit probably phoned that home the minute it happened.

 

[gakhar]

Post a pic of your real one. FL5's don't go that high yet.

Honda already knows, the telematics unit probably phoned that home the minute it happened.

They do, my 25’ is 46xxx. Worldwide count for Type R’s is around 48k I think.

 

[Spart]

They do, my 25’ is 46xxx. Worldwide count for Type R’s is around 48k I think.

Ah, I had only seen in the 30's. But then again, they don't hand them out sequentially from what I understand.

 

[gakhar]

Ah, I had only seen in the 30's. But then again, they don't hand them out sequentially from what I understand.

It seems sequential in terms of world wide production but not by VIN/Country as far as I can tell.

 

[Spart]

It seems sequential in terms of world wide production but not by VIN/Country as far as I can tell.

What I heard is, they just get them in batches and they kinda get stuck on the cars at random.

But the batches will be sequential. Whether the batch is 1k or 5k or... who knows?

And who knows if they're doing FIFO inventory.

 

[Xmetal]

Ah, I had only seen in the 30's. But then again, they don't hand them out sequentially from what I understand.

I've seen it already in the 50xxx

 

[yzhan01]

If you take it to Honda they can see engine RPM and the mileage stamp. However, if you do this, it will be permanently logged in their systems and your warranty is voided

Now, can you get dealers who will work with you? Of course, but technically warranty is shot.

I did the same thing and got the ticking sound that someone mentioned here lol I’ve been fine for 7k miles and plenty of redline with no loss of power or the sound getting louder

Dealership did a once over and replaced a rod bearing on cylinder 4 and said my noise was normal.

Doing an oil analysis next oil change and will likely report back here with the findings, if any.

I have the same issue - money shifted from 3 to 2, will likely need to get bearing replaced, just curious how much did the dealer charge you / did they cover it under warranty?

 

[Bootyfett69]

I have the same issue - money shifted from 3 to 2, will likely need to get bearing replaced, just curious how much did the dealer charge you / did they cover it under warranty?

No, was not covered. Cost around $1100 for all four bearings.

Assuming they just drop the oil pan to do it. Does yours tick now too?

 

[yzhan01]

No, was not covered. Cost around $1100 for all four bearings.

Assuming they just drop the oil pan to do it. Does yours tick now too?

That’s good to hear, less expensive than expected!

its less ticking but there’s some quiet knocking after the shift, barely audible at idle but louder between 1500-2500rpm then engine sounds are too loud to hear it anymore after. Assuming it’s a spun bearing but no noticeable oil pressure change or changes in normal driving. Haven’t really done a pull because I have an appointment with a performance shop on Wednesday for them to do a compression and leak-down test. Hopefully if it is the bearings they can them bearings for a similar price.

 

[Bootyfett69]

That’s good to hear, less expensive than expected!

its less ticking but there’s some quiet knocking after the shift, barely audible at idle but louder between 1500-2500rpm then engine sounds are too loud to hear it anymore after. Assuming it’s a spun bearing but no noticeable oil pressure change or changes in normal driving. Haven’t really done a pull because I have an appointment with a performance shop on Wednesday for them to do a compression and leak-down test. Hopefully if it is the bearings they can them bearings for a similar price.

That is EXACTLY the issue I and many others have. It’s not a spun bearing, all four of mine replaced and noise persists.

Almost inaudible on a cold start but warm is very noticeable. I’ve noticed the noise for the past 7k miles, since the money shift.

Others have had the noise since their cars were brand new and haven’t money shifted. If you just search “Type R knock 1500rpm” you’ll find a few threads. Both FL5 and FK8 and I’ve even seen Pilots with a very similar sound. No one seems to know exactly what it is but injectors seem to be the most widely “accepted” answer

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