SCCA Autocross Stock Class

[SCVanguard]

All to play second fiddle to the Supras

Sponsored

 

[rbang]

SAC is looking for feedback on moving the FL5 (and GR Corolla) to DS : Fastrack

 

[Cubby]

SAC is looking for feedback on moving the FL5 (and GR Corolla) to DS : Fastrack

Beat me to posting it. There will be a lot of push back from current DS competitors. Letters in support of the move will be helpful.

https://www.crbscca.com/

 

[simpleisbest]

For those too busy read the link:

Please get those letters in! Every letter of support does make a difference.

 

[MatthewakaMatt]

I am looking to get some 200 TW tires to try to be a bit more competitive than the factory setup I've been running so far in BS. Currently the car is completely stock besides an ITS damper module. Before I start buying stuff, I wanted to double check my plans with those more experienced with autocrossing these cars.

It looks like there aren't any of the fast tires that would fit the stock wheels, so I need to get a set of 18x9.5 wheels with near stock offset. Apex Wheel's VS-5 and EC-7 come in an 18x9.5 ET58 that look like a good option, though of course I prefer the look of the out of stock wheels. Are there any other legal wheels I should check out?

For tires, I was thinking stock width 265/35R18 or one step wider 275/35R18 should fit and be the right height. For someone like me at the just for fun level, I was thinking having a square setup and being able to swap which ones are getting abused on the front would be worthwhile. Maryland gets a lot of rain, so there will probably be at least one or two rainy events every year. Is the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS somewhat decent in the rain?

Does that seem decent setup?

 

[Cubby]

I am looking to get some 200 TW tires to try to be a bit more competitive than the factory setup I've been running so far in BS. Currently the car is completely stock besides an ITS damper module. Before I start buying stuff, I wanted to double check my plans with those more experienced with autocrossing these cars.

It looks like there aren't any of the fast tires that would fit the stock wheels, so I need to get a set of 18x9.5 wheels with near stock offset. Apex Wheel's VS-5 and EC-7 come in an 18x9.5 ET58 that look like a good option, though of course I prefer the look of the out of stock wheels. Are there any other legal wheels I should check out?

For tires, I was thinking stock width 265/35R18 or one step wider 275/35R18 should fit and be the right height. For someone like me at the just for fun level, I was thinking having a square setup and being able to swap which ones are getting abused on the front would be worthwhile. Maryland gets a lot of rain, so there will probably be at least one or two rainy events every year. Is the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS somewhat decent in the rain?

Does that seem decent setup?

275/35 RE-71RS square on EC-7s is what I had been running and would highly recommend. Assuming you have pulled pins for max front camber the only difference to my setup is a stiffer than stock rear bar.

 

[goskers]

I am looking to get some 200 TW tires to try to be a bit more competitive than the factory setup I've been running so far in BS. Currently the car is completely stock besides an ITS damper module. Before I start buying stuff, I wanted to double check my plans with those more experienced with autocrossing these cars.

It looks like there aren't any of the fast tires that would fit the stock wheels, so I need to get a set of 18x9.5 wheels with near stock offset. Apex Wheel's VS-5 and EC-7 come in an 18x9.5 ET58 that look like a good option, though of course I prefer the look of the out of stock wheels. Are there any other legal wheels I should check out?

For tires, I was thinking stock width 265/35R18 or one step wider 275/35R18 should fit and be the right height. For someone like me at the just for fun level, I was thinking having a square setup and being able to swap which ones are getting abused on the front would be worthwhile. Maryland gets a lot of rain, so there will probably be at least one or two rainy events every year. Is the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS somewhat decent in the rain?

Does that seem decent setup?

I would agree with what you are planning. Those Apex seem to be some of the few available which are in compliance. Tire selection and size are what most are running. As the other said, rear bar is the only other bit left.
Remember to focus on yourself as the driver as this is the area where the most opportunity tends to live.

 

[tcolletti]

I am looking to get some 200 TW tires to try to be a bit more competitive than the factory setup I've been running so far in BS. Currently the car is completely stock besides an ITS damper module. Before I start buying stuff, I wanted to double check my plans with those more experienced with autocrossing these cars.

It looks like there aren't any of the fast tires that would fit the stock wheels, so I need to get a set of 18x9.5 wheels with near stock offset. Apex Wheel's VS-5 and EC-7 come in an 18x9.5 ET58 that look like a good option, though of course I prefer the look of the out of stock wheels. Are there any other legal wheels I should check out?

For tires, I was thinking stock width 265/35R18 or one step wider 275/35R18 should fit and be the right height. For someone like me at the just for fun level, I was thinking having a square setup and being able to swap which ones are getting abused on the front would be worthwhile. Maryland gets a lot of rain, so there will probably be at least one or two rainy events every year. Is the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS somewhat decent in the rain?

Does that seem decent setup?

Titan 7 has a nice wheel that fits the stock class requirements. And I recommend the 275 square setup with at least some sort of upgraded rear sway bar. As you are in MD I would recommend the Bridgestones unless you plan on having a co driver all season. The Vitours will take forever to warmup without one or without being in Texas.


Link to Titan7 thread
https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/new-titan7-t-p10-wheels.53203/

 

[MatthewakaMatt]

Thanks everybody!

 

[Sooner1]

I am looking to get some 200 TW tires to try to be a bit more competitive than the factory setup I've been running so far in BS. Currently the car is completely stock besides an ITS damper module. Before I start buying stuff, I wanted to double check my plans with those more experienced with autocrossing these cars.

It looks like there aren't any of the fast tires that would fit the stock wheels, so I need to get a set of 18x9.5 wheels with near stock offset. Apex Wheel's VS-5 and EC-7 come in an 18x9.5 ET58 that look like a good option, though of course I prefer the look of the out of stock wheels. Are there any other legal wheels I should check out?

For tires, I was thinking stock width 265/35R18 or one step wider 275/35R18 should fit and be the right height. For someone like me at the just for fun level, I was thinking having a square setup and being able to swap which ones are getting abused on the front would be worthwhile. Maryland gets a lot of rain, so there will probably be at least one or two rainy events every year. Is the Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RS somewhat decent in the rain?

Does that seem decent setup?

I went a difference route than most. I do not like the look of stock black wheels on boost blue and also wanted to limit costs. I purchased a set of stock ITS wheels cheap from someone who upgraded and use those as my daily wheels - which I really like the gunmetal-ish look with boost blue.
So, that left me with the stock wheels for autocross. I run the RE-71RS in 255/35-19. You get to a bit of diminishing returns with width - as you get wider change of direction becomes not as precise (a few articles in Grassroots Motorsports on this topic). That being said, I will most likely go with the 265/35 for my next set.
Our events are very competitive with 130-150 entries with numerous nationals trophy winners and trailered in cars - I run top 10 PAX normally with an occasional top 5.

 

[SCVanguard]

I figure I'll get a better response here than the FB FL5 group.

A couple of months ago, I started to develop this squeak in the rear that sounds like basketball sneakers on a hardwood floor. The only time it happened was when I would turn left. When I got under the car, I took a look at my RV6 RSB with their endlinks. I had forgotten that when I installed it I got one side fit into the hardest slot but the other side only was able to get into the middle slot. I got it all loosened up, adjusted the endlink to get into the hard setting, and made sure the bar was centered (it was previously just a little bit offset towards the passenger side).

Tightened everything up, went for a drive - no more squeak when turning left!!! Now it was squeaking when going straight.

Last week, I got underneath the car again, left the endlinks on the lower control arm and detached the bar from the subframe. I white lithium greased everything I could find near the attachment points, and reinstalled.

First drive - it was gone!

Next day - the squeaks were back.

I emailed RV6 asking for advice and they told me to use silicone lubricant on the spherical bearings. My assumption is that they thought I had bought their sphericals which is not correct.

What should I do next??? This thing is driving me insane.

 

[simpleisbest]

I figure I'll get a better response here than the FB FL5 group.

A couple of months ago, I started to develop this squeak in the rear that sounds like basketball sneakers on a hardwood floor. The only time it happened was when I would turn left. When I got under the car, I took a look at my RV6 RSB with their endlinks. I had forgotten that when I installed it I got one side fit into the hardest slot but the other side only was able to get into the middle slot. I got it all loosened up, adjusted the endlink to get into the hard setting, and made sure the bar was centered (it was previously just a little bit offset towards the passenger side).

Tightened everything up, went for a drive - no more squeak when turning left!!! Now it was squeaking when going straight.

Last week, I got underneath the car again, left the endlinks on the lower control arm and detached the bar from the subframe. I white lithium greased everything I could find near the attachment points, and reinstalled.

First drive - it was gone!

Next day - the squeaks were back.

I emailed RV6 asking for advice and they told me to use silicone lubricant on the spherical bearings. My assumption is that they thought I had bought their sphericals which is not correct.

What should I do next??? This thing is driving me insane.

that type of sound is typically from bushings.

I’m not a fan of that bar. I think it needs some rework to be optimum. The crinkle coating they use looks nice but I think it is too abrasive for the bushings and the bushings/brackets are too tight imo.

I would advise you inspect the wear pattern of the part of the bar that goes in the bushing. Maybe sand it down to smooth it out. Inspect the inside of the bushing to make sure nothing is torn or damaged and replace as needed. You can solve the bushing preload problem by using some washers to space out the bracket from the body to alleviate the preload some.

 

[SCVanguard]

Which bar do you have?

 

[simpleisbest]

Which bar do you have?

Karcepts now

Previously I had the RV6 bar on the car.

 

[goskers]

Does anyone know historically when the shake-up of classes happens at SCCA?

Sponsored