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It seems like an acknowledgement of the feedback for now vs the standard "TTFI" response

Maybe for the rears, but the fronts are floating type that you are not supposed to turn with a brake lathe iirc

With 30k on the original rotors, you need to clean/re-hone the rotors to remove pad deposits which can prevent new pads of different compounds from bedding properly. Typically you can use brake clean spray and a hone tool to easily get the job done.

Karcepts now Previously I had the RV6 bar on the car.

that type of sound is typically from bushings. I’m not a fan of that bar. I think it needs some rework to be optimum. The crinkle coating they use looks nice but I think it is too abrasive for the bushings and the bushings/brackets are too tight imo. I would advise you inspect the wear pattern...

@PointByPatrol install video for the new WOT dual oilcooler is up ? The set up looks great and well thought out Excited to hear about the track temp results!

stock suspension? Stock springs?

For those too busy read the link: Please get those letters in! Every letter of support does make a difference.

That bracket in your pic looks pretty trimmed and modified. I mean, even the plastic tab's vertical reinforcements are gone in your pic. For some like me, specifics about identifying ICs that can be installed without modifications is about racing class rules, not because of any brand...

the OEM plastic sensor bracket is totally cut to fit the MDR IC

The intercooler providing a replacement bracket is not the same as "do not have to modify or trim anything at all". The PWR's 87mm (3.42") core is already pushed to the edge of the backside of the sensor bracket, so it would be interesting to see how the 5.5" core MDR can be fitted without...

The Airtec installation instructions say you need to cut the sensor bracket to fit

Can you fit the MDR without trimming or removing material from the OEM temp sensor plastic bracket? The picture suggest you still have to modify/trim the OEM bracket to fit the IC.

For the rears, if your rear lines have dry-break connectors you can route them through the plugs in the spare tire wheel well. I just used some p-clamps and magnetic bases to mount while still still being able to pick up the canisters to adjust. Seems to be holding up without any unwanted...

I should have clarified before, but steering angle reset really comes into play if the front subframe was re-aligned. From what I have been told, the reset is part of the recommended procedure per Honda after an (front) alignment is performed. Sometime after I re-aligned my front subframe, I...

Not sure if there are any other solutions than the dealership to reset the steering rack angle sensor.

You can take it back for alignment and make sure the rear subframe is properly aligned. They should be able to tell with the "thrust angle". If that looks good, then you can have the steering rack sensor reset. When you do a couple alignments, the base setting of the sensor gets a bit out of...

When did you last have an alignment performed?

For the fronts, I just used a couple of cheap aluminum L-brackets from Amazon and some hose clamps. Seems to be sturdy enough

It is coming together but with some hiccups. I just got the JRZ suspension in but tried the Vitour tires up front and there were pretty bad. Not only did they need heat to function but once they got up to temp, they would drop off toward the end of the run. This is with the 315s on an 11" wide...