Removing Left Rear Camber Arm '24 FL5

[Gary Lively]

Replacing the stock rear camber arms with adjustable SPC arms. The left rear, rumored to be challenging, was time consuming but got the new arm installed. I moved to the right and released it from the knuckle but the inner bolt is hitting the gas tank with about 1/2" still in the bushing. Considering dropping the rear subframe but have never read or seen any YouTube video that anyone else has had this problem.
1st pic is with the bolt against the tank. @nd pic is with the bolt about 1-2" back away from the tank.
Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Gary Lively]

I *think* that I have an answer to my own question. The bolt is merely too long.

On the left side there are 2 bolts. The outer bolt for the knuckle is about 1" (OK 24mm) longer than the inner bolt since the knuckle is much thicker being an aluminum casting. It appears that the that the wrong (longer) was used during the assembly procedure on the right side. The subframe is going to have to come down to extract bolt. Grrrrr!

 

[svvitch]

This is where I'd be asking myself if I really need more camber.

 

[BigBird]

the one into the spindle is 12x94, and the other one is 12x77.5...that sucks that this happened. i would get the rear subframe collar kit and do it one time

 

[Gary Lively]

I *think* that I have an answer to my own question. The bolt is merely too long.

On the left side there are 2 bolts. The outer bolt for the knuckle is about 1" (OK 24mm) longer than the inner bolt since the knuckle is much thicker being an aluminum casting. It appears that the that the wrong (longer) was used during the assembly procedure on the right side. The subframe is going to have to come down to extract bolt. Grrrrr!

Any idea what the thread pitch is? Thinking about cutting the bolt in the middle and replacing with either the Honda replacement or a Grade 8 bolt.

 

[BigBird]

Any idea what the thread pitch is? Thinking about cutting the bolt in the middle and replacing with either the Honda replacement or a Grade 8 bolt.

i would venture to guess it's a 1.5

Here's the part#s in case you wanted to replace both
Bolt, Flange (12X77.5) Part Number: 90180-TBA-A00
Bolt-washer (12X94) Part Number: 90175-TBA-A11

 

[AZCWTypeR]

As an FYI: Grade 8 bolts are more brittle than Grade 5. Grade 5's can withstand impact damage better (bend further before fracturing). SCCA used to spec Grade 5 for roll cage fasteners instead of Grade 8 for this reason.

I'd go with OEM and not worry about it.

 

[Gary Lively]

i would venture to guess it's a 1.5

Here's the part#s in case you wanted to replace both
Bolt, Flange (12X77.5) Part Number: 90180-TBA-A00
Bolt-washer (12X94) Part Number: 90175-TBA-A11

 

[Gary Lively]

Thanks so much for the part#. I'll call my local dealer's part desk for the part. Looks like it is used in 3 places in the rear suspension, two of them having easy access.
Now, if I can only figure out how to remove that old bolt.

 

[BigBird]

any updates?

 

[Gary Lively]

Had to postpone this due to no availability of car lifts to get it high enough to drop the subframe. Relegated to the todo list.

 

[Sateen2125]

the one into the spindle is 12x94, and the other one is 12x77.5...that sucks that this happened. i would get the rear subframe collar kit and do it one time

Agree with BigBird. Collar kit is a good idea. Im working on all my suspension mods first before anything else. So far have the RV6 Lower control arm that adjusts camber. Upper adjusts toe. rear sway with endlinks. Want bushings and collar kit, coilovers etc.

 

[nttran98]

Is this a type-R specific problem?

 

[simpleisbest]

Did you try shifting the subframe? If you loosen the subframe bolts to the chassis (factory rear subframe alignment procedure), you can actually get a pretty big amount of adjustment left/right, forward/back - maybe like 1/4" or less of movement IIRC. (I noticed this when I aligned my subframe to get even camber numbers in the rear on stock suspension).

You should be able to shift the subframe rearward and a bit diagonal for the bolt to clear the gas tank.

 

[Cueyo]

Is this a type-R specific problem?

It's a hatch specific problem, was the same case on my sport hatchback. I had a shop put mine in a year ago and they told me it was a "pain in the ass to remove", never asked them how they got it out though.

Funny part is I'm trying to remove them myself now and need to know how to tackle that bolt before I actually do it

Sponsored