I always recommend that to my customers. Not because you necessarily need additional camber (especially if you're not too low), but to get the most accurate side-to-side (cross camber and cross toe) alignment possible. Stock arms don't have any fine tune adjustment, so one side might be off up to .5⁰ of camber off.
RE71-RZ coming out in 15 daysssss. Shoulda waited! Hopefully see you at the track next season!Thanks to everyone on this thread for posting information. I went with the below combo and am really happy with the square look of the tire and how flush it is with the wheel. Will be going on a BB FL5.
TE37 Saga S-Plus 18x10 +40
RE-71RS 265/35/18
What are you using for camber? I'm finding the lower ball joints don't give me enough adjustability and I'm locked at either -3.5 or -2.5, when I'd very much like to try -3 lol.
Both actually. Sakebomb garage and whiteline LBJs. Pulled pins as well to adjust at strut.
which LBJ do you have? I have the exact opposite problem, my EVS LBJ gives me either -3 or -4 and I want -3.5
yes
The struts pushed fully in? Pull the strut back out and you may get closer to -3.5⁰ on the the most negative setting on the EVS LBJ. The last set of EVS I installed on a customer car on the middle setting got -2.7⁰ with strut pins pulled and fine tuning adjusted at the strut mount.
This. Any LBJ should theoretically be roughly equivalent. Mine does not have the pins pulled so that tracks; I have the EVS on the most aggressive setting, and it landed at -3.5. My understanding is moving the strut tower by pulling the pins can gain an additional .2-.4 of negative camber. Just put the struts back to factory position and you should be around where you want to be... but that said that's a pretty "ghetto" approach. I'd vastly prefer the finer adjustability of true camber plates.
Its effectively doing the same thing. Although most camber plates have caster adjustability, but if you ignore that, moving the strut via top mount slots or camber plates for camber adjustment, its the same functionality for all intents and purposes.
Fair enough, but I have to imagine camber plates allow for more than .4 degrees of adjustment?
Oh yes definitely. I'm just talking about it's doing the same thing; it may not have the range, but its still adjusting the same thing. Camber plates on these cars have about 3.5-4⁰ of adjustment (the lower end if you arent using the strut mount holes in conjunction).
