Track Alignment Settings?

tezzasaurusrex

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Appreciate the insight! Since Ill be running everything OEM, it sounds like I can't quite get to -3+ on front. Any thoughts on track setup for full OEM FL5 (except for pads and fluids)? I've been RWD for the last few years so first time on track in the FL5 and FWD.
All you need is to upgrade the brake fluid, and ensure you are not under inflating your tyres. Because you'll be camber limited, you need to run the pressures higher so your sidewalls don't fold over.
When you get more serious and start chasing lap times, more camber is crucial.
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So to be clear, you pulled the pins and run -2'ish up front on the OEM 19" PS4? Or did you mean you ran the OEM alignment when you said "stock alignment restrictions ?
On my ps4s I happened to be on factory alignment. Hot pressure at 35. They held up well for 5 hours on track as a novice. They were greasy but I didn't experience any chunking or other issues.
 

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really depends on how you drive, with the ps4s you can kill those tires in a day because they are so soft/not enough camber.

tezzasaurusrex has great advice to keep pressures a little higher, this will make a huge difference. Also depending on the track you can rotate the wheels (Lime Rock for example is all right turns so your left tires take huge abuse so rotating there can be important to extend life).

I have ran 2 days with this car (its been a sad slow track season for me :(), first time was on ps4s and I kept pressures higher than normal, tires look ok at the end of the day but I would not want to be doing too many days with them personally). Then second time I went with Hankook RS4s because they are known to wear well, not the best 200tw tires but they last which is what I want since I am on stock camber. Personally I would just go out there on stock camber and see how the car does, then you can decide to pull the pins, I don't think pulling the pins really will make that big of a difference on wear personally so I have not done it, eventually will get some ball joints and do about 3 degrees of camber which I think is the spot
 
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Im about to pull the trigger on a spare set of wheels for the track 18x9.5 +45 with Kuhmo V730 in 265/35 size.

From what I read on the earlier in this thread, the camber/strut pin removal only nets about -0.3 degrees of camber. If I remove the pins, does that change the camber or do I have to remove them and do something else?

As for driving style, I tend to run in the middle to upper end of the intermediate groups. VIR is a pretty fast track.
 
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Im about to pull the trigger on a spare set of wheels for the track 18x9.5 +45 with Kuhmo V730 in 265/35 size.

From what I read on the earlier in this thread, the camber/strut pin removal only nets about -0.3 degrees of camber. If I remove the pins, does that change the camber or do I have to remove them and do something else?

As for driving style, I tend to run in the middle to upper end of the intermediate groups. VIR is a pretty fast track.
if you remove the pins and do nothing then nothing changes. You have to remove pins, undo bolts and move them to get as much camber as possible. So just remove the pin at home, take it to an aligment shop and let em do an alignment and just tell em you want to max the camber up front
 


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Djseto

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My track day is coming up in less than two weeks and I've got an appointment with a local shop to do alignment. Just to recap, I'm now going to be running 18x9.5 265/35/18 Kuhmo Ecsta V730's (200TW) instead of OEM 19" PS4. Based on the posts so far, this is what I should ask for I think:

Front:
Camber (with pins removed) = Max Negative (~ 2 degrees max probably)
Toe = 0
Caster = leave OEM

Rear:
Camber = -2 to -2.5
Toe: In 0 to +3mm
Caster = leave OEM


Ideally whatever settings I use, should double for daily driving as well on OEM 19's. That being said, if pulling the pins only gets me .3 more negative, is it worth doing an alignment at all from OEM?

This won't be my first track day but it will be my first time in FWD platform. I appreciate the feedback/help.
 

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My track day is coming up in less than two weeks and I've got an appointment with a local shop to do alignment. Just to recap, I'm now going to be running 18x9.5 265/35/18 Kuhmo Ecsta V730's (200TW) instead of OEM 19" PS4. Based on the posts so far, this is what I should ask for I think:

Front:
Camber (with pins removed) = Max Negative (~ 2 degrees max probably)
Toe = 0
Caster = leave OEM

Rear:
Camber = -2 to -2.5
Toe: In 0 to +3mm
Caster = leave OEM


Ideally whatever settings I use, should double for daily driving as well on OEM 19's. That being said, if pulling the pins only gets me .3 more negative, is it worth doing an alignment at all from OEM?

This won't be my first track day but it will be my first time in FWD platform. I appreciate the feedback/help.
you don't need that much rear camber. ideally it should be less than the front in a FWD car. Rear Toe I would keep at 0 as well
 
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Djseto

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Anyone know what OEM is set at? If OEM is maxed out and pulling the pins only gets me .3 more negative, I wonder if it’s even worth the cost of an alignment compared to the possible gain…
 

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OEM from factory could be all over the board. I think that's why it would be worth an alignment. I had almost zero camber in back and toe out in the rear and toe in for the front. Not much to change but still not ideal. Was worth the $100.
 

tezzasaurusrex

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Anyone know what OEM is set at? If OEM is maxed out and pulling the pins only gets me .3 more negative, I wonder if it’s even worth the cost of an alignment compared to the possible gain…
OEM camber is -1.5° front and rear with some variation depending on the alignment of the subframe.
Unfortunately, as with most production cars, there is little adjustability available from factory. Obviously, there are manufacturing and production cost reasons for this. So you need aftermarket ball joints or camber tops to get the camber required for full track use.
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the rear has no camber adjustability from factory, only toe (it has a small affect on camber but this is not the way to adjust camber). Additionally, when you lower the car, the multilink rear end will gain negative camber, while the MacPherson architecture in the front end will not.
 
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Djseto

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So you need aftermarket ball joints or camber tops to get the camber required for full track use.
Agreed. Won’t have time before next week so what would you suggest for now?
 
 







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