SPC part# 67476 Rear Camber Passanger side install issue

[azev]

Hi all, I am having an issue with removing the top bolt (not the hub side) for the passanger side because there is not enough clearance to pull the bolt out.
Dropping the subframe or gas tank seems to be out of the questions (by choice).
I saw another post in the forum with similar issue with no solution so far.
Does anyone here have successfully install the SPC camber arm for 2024 FL5 CTR ?
If so do you have any advice, tricks, or tips on how to get the bolt out ??

Thanks

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[RacingIsLife]

There was just a thread where they were talking about this exact thing I'll try to find it

 

[nttran98]

Precisely this: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/removing-left-rear-camber-arm-24-fl5.55730/

 

[azev]

Precisely this: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/removing-left-rear-camber-arm-24-fl5.55730/

Ditto, that is the issue....
I noticed in my search some folks have successfully install this camber kit on their car, so there must be a trick to it. Please do share your experience if you have successfully install this kit.

Thanks

 

[BigBird]

I think that issue would happen with any camber kit and not exclusive to SPC.

Doesn't sound fun as I have a 2024 this time around. Wonder if it's all 2024 or just a batch

 

[azev]

I ended up getting the RV6 camber arm and call it a day, much easier to install and configure too.

 

[BigBird]

I ended up getting the RV6 camber arm and call it a day, much easier to install and configure too.

Is that the whole lower arm?

 

[azev]

Is that the whole lower arm?

RV6 called the part Lower A Control Arm, it replaces the Arm in front of the spring perch and you can adjust camber by extending or retracting the arm.

 

[BigBird]

RV6 called the part Lower A Control Arm, it replaces the Arm in front of the spring perch and you can adjust camber by extending or retracting the arm.

is that the straight one? but you would still have to get the bolt out, which no matter the arm would be an issue if it was the wrong size.

 

[azev]

This is a completely different component than the SPC, this one is the lower A arm, it is located right below the arm that SPC replaces. See this pics below, the spc is the AK-170 or AK-285 parts and the RV6 is the AK-173. It is all below the subframe and knucle, with full access to all the bolts, very easy to swap, and does the same thing (adjust camber).

 

[BigBird]

This is a completely different component than the SPC, this one is the lower A arm, it is located right below the arm that SPC replaces. See this pics below, the spc is the AK-170 or AK-285 parts and the RV6 is the AK-173. It is all below the subframe and knucle, with full access to all the bolts, very easy to swap, and does the same thing (adjust camber).

very good to know. HPD uses the SPC one rather than the RV6, even though it uses RV6 for the other components, so I said if they use it over RV6, should be a reason.

I'm a masochist, so I may still give the SPC a try in the future, but this is good to know as another option.

Thanks!

 

[Integra23]

Isomeone mentioned using an extra long ratcheting wrench similar to what's below. I'm not sure if there is a preferred brand since most reviewera have had failures.
https://www.amazon.com/DURATECH-Ratcheting-9-Piece-Vanadium-Organizer/dp/B08DJ3YMF4

 

[azev]

HPD uses the SPC one rather than the RV6

Rite, I went with SPC because I too read that it is the parts that the HPD uses. If only I did this the same time I had to drop my subframe to install the spoon subframe colars then it might be doable. Oh well, live and learn

Isomeone mentioned using an extra long ratcheting wrench similar to what's below. I'm not sure if there is a preferred brand since most reviewera have had failures.

to be honest, i dont think any tools will help, the issue is not tools clearance but removing bolt clearance... the fuel tank is on the way to get the bolt out. Some suggest dropping the subframe abit which might be possible, but I dont feel like doing that during the install.

 

[jpindustrie]

RV6 called the part Lower A Control Arm, it replaces the Arm in front of the spring perch and you can adjust camber by extending or retracting the arm.

I'm debating going this route instead of the SPC/Eibach upper camber arm, but I hear these arms are really for Toe adjustment vs camber , did you have any issues getting it aligned and asking the person for more negative camber in the rear ? Did you also do the lower RV6 arm?

Thanks

 

[ctechauto]

I'm debating going this route instead of the SPC/Eibach upper camber arm, but I hear these arms are really for Toe adjustment vs camber , did you have any issues getting it aligned and asking the person for more negative camber in the rear ? Did you also do the lower RV6 arm?

Thanks

The upper SPC/Eibach arm is for camber, and the lower arm (not control arm bucket - the one to the left of the eibach arms in this pic) is for toe. But in reality, everything is connected - you adjust camber or toe and one follows suit. Although yes technically you can adjust camber here too, but again, will affect toe values, so its mainly for toe depending on how much you need/want to adjust.

Rite, I went with SPC because I too read that it is the parts that the HPD uses. If only I did this the same time I had to drop my subframe to install the spoon subframe colars then it might be doable. Oh well, live and learn



to be honest, i dont think any tools will help, the issue is not tools clearance but removing bolt clearance... the fuel tank is on the way to get the bolt out. Some suggest dropping the subframe abit which might be possible, but I dont feel like doing that during the install.

Sorry but that is incorrect for the most part. Its not the front/back space thats limited, its the side to side space (unless the wrong length bolt was used during factory install or just subframe is totally shifted way off). The bolt comes out fine once its unthreaded. Its just a pain to get it threaded out because of the limited room of with the arc swing of wrench even with a 90 or 120 tooth. This is why we charge 3 hours of labor just to do the upper control arms for those who dont have the right tools or want to mess with it themselves. Its not fun, but its entirely doable without dropping the subframe or tank. Have done this on a few FK8 and FL5.

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