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Back when I had my GT350 I tried using those blue silicon boots and it still barely last around 2 track days before it start cracking and essentially get disintegrated soon after. My brother E46M3 is in a similar boat.. basically if you track your car often and hard on the brake, the brake boots...

How about those calipers that uses no boots from the factory like AP racings?? what do they do differently so that it is ok not to use the outer boots ?? From my observation the main difference is that they replace the boots with another internal seals, and that the piston is made of stainless...

If you dont want to keep replacing boots then the only options is to replace the caliper with a model without boots. Honestly I've seen people on track day with completely torn brake caliper boots from the year before and it seems to be ok.. Idk how bad it is running without boots for an...

Stock alignment from the dealer or honda factory were mediocre at best. Mine was not even at spec on 3 corners but close to it. This is about 2-3 weeks after purchasing the car and my curiosity got the best of me.

you can also look for an aftermarket higher temperature boots that will last slightly longer than stock boots.

are there any feedback regarding whether this intercooler will impede airflow to the radiator like the bar and plate design does ?

AP racing by essex is probably one of the top of the line brake kit you can get, but you gotta pay big bucks for it. When looking for BBK especially if you track your car alot, I usually always look for a kit that does not uses dust boots on the pistons because the boots always failed. I tried...

the answer to your question is yes, but this is a static change not like a top mount with a slider which you can easily adjust. To adjust these ball joints you have to remove 2 bolts and swap the eccentric washers.

finally have the chance to swap the track pads back to street pads and I notice something abit odd. The right caliper appear to only consume the inside pads and the outer is barely used. I am thinking something happened with the brake system somehow... I've tested to check and see if the piston...

I guess that is one possibility, but I imagine if the issue has something to do with steering angle sensor miss behave that it would happen all the time ?? this pulling to the right only happens during 100mph+ braking zones... I tried braking pretty hard from 60mph to almost stop in an empty...

Do you know of any DIY method for this ?? google Ai shows some steps but I aways take google ai result with a grain of salt. As for the thrust angle, I remember seeing this in the alignment sheet, and i think it was green.

probably about a week before the track day when I test install the new wheels and tire.. -3.5 Camber up front and 0 toe -1.5 Camber in the rear and 0.03Degrees toe in Took it to a good alignment shop that does alignment for track rats :) so they are willing to work with you on the settings and...

for those who track their FL5, do you guys have any issues with the car pulling to the side (to the right in my case) during high speed threshold braking ?? I have tracked my FL5 three times using stock tire and i didnt have this issue, but during last week track day with new lightweight wheels...

Yeah, the car is definitely track ready from factory, but only when the ambient is below 70 hehehe, once summer weather comes along and the ambient is 80-100 degress, at least my car cannot handle it when you push it hard. I upgraded the radiator for this year track day, let see how she holds up...

spending $10K ++ in basic mods are not that surprising these days. Just add Wheels and Tires, and abit of carbon bits here and there and you hit 10K eazy.. If you want nice coilovers thats another $5K ++ .. its pretty insane actually.. I always create a sheet that tracks my spending for the car...

thanks... since I am close to finish with the suspensions, now I can move on to the pile of parts that I got for under the hood hehehe. Hoping to minimize the overheating issues at the track.

After installing the RV6 rear end, I immediately noticed an unusual noise, indicating that something was amiss. Having owned several vehicles with similar setups, this level of noise issue was unprecedented for me. Over the past few weeks, my dissatisfaction with the FL5 has grown to the point...

I've spent the last few weekends trying to identify the issue. The noise only comes from the driver-side rear. I've removed and reinstalled everything, retorqued all parts, but the noise persists. Ultimately, I decided to remove the rear interior, except for the rear seat bottom, in order to...

I've watched that video and many others about RV6 install and for the most part I think we did the install exactly the same way as what showed in the video, except we have a coilover spring and spring perch without any rubber so its metal to metal contact. I didnt expect the coilover spring...

Currently the RV6 swaybar are set in the middle hole on both side. I have removed the swaybar all the way to reinstall them and torqued all the bolts while the suspension is fully loaded on a ramp but it didn't really improve much... I am completely unsure which part exactly is making the...