For occasional track use , which oil viscosity to use? Using oil data sheet for guidance
optronix
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This is what I want to know now. I tried googling this and got a wide variety of almost exclusively useless results.
Websitesdown
Senior Member
What was the best oil?Looks like the Honda Fully Synthetic does have higher detergent content vs. mobile 1
Not All 0-20's and 5-30's are not created equal. Look especially at the 100c wear test.
Now for some reason, this specific Motul Eco nergy was far better than the other eco lite Motul 5w30
Websitesdown
Senior Member
Well, I'm sitting at 4300 miles right now and just scheduled to get my free oil change at my dealership whom, I trust, a lot. From everyone's experiences I've read about I'd say I have the best Honda Dealership around in the United States IMO. I personally know these guys and only their master tech whom I know personally does my work for me. Once I use up my free oil changes, I was thinking of using Mobil 1 like I did on my SI that I had. Just curious if I should rethink that or not.
svvitch
Senior Member
Mobil1 seemed to shear down to a lower weight more frequently on the UOA I looked at. Starting with a 5w30 would help with this. But just for commuting and spirited driving, I think keeping intervals between changes reasonable is also a good protective measure. I like the certification of the Euro spec 5w30 and am using the Pennzoil Euro 5w30. Mobil1 ESP 5w30, or Valvoline 5w30 XL-III Euro also had good specs.
Websitesdown
Senior Member
Thank you as always Jester! Definitely will be checking it.
Thank you. Looks like it's Mobil1 ESP 5w30 then.
svvitch
Senior Member
I was between the Pennzoil Euro 5w30 Or ESP 5w30. My local Walmart had the Pennzoil but only 1 quart of the ESP. I like easily available options.
johnloov
Senior Member
I'm still researching, what is Best, as it seems some of the thicker oils result in hotter water temps, and it seems like the Honda OEM oil is about the same wear as MOTUL 8100 0-20 at 100c, but it did fail earlier at room temp.
As far as some of the 0w-20's the Castrol Edge 0w-20 did better than both at lower temp on this friction test. There are many other variables to consider also.
As far as 5w-30's this specific Motul did insanely well, not like other Motul Formulas which looked similar to the 0w-20.Motul 8100 Eco nergy 5W30
Then there are Mobile 1 5w 30's failing badly at room temperature, not even at 100c - on this specific test. Most people are just guessing what oil to put in their car, without a half way scientific process. I guess it's similar to religion, just believe, and close your eyes, don't question.
This will take me some time to go through it all.
Valvoline Max life 5w-30 did also very good vs this Mobile 1 ESP formula
For sure the only known known, I can say comfortably that is a known known with stock OEM 0-20 or certified close options. Change it more often, 5-6 track days, or mix of track and road 2k mies and 3k miles with normal driving. That's what's an absolute known, known. Once an oil starts to degrade, and build with contaminants, especially if it changes to a darker color, you know it needs to go.
I personally have ~2,000 miles on stock FL5 Oil, and it's still bright yellow, with two heavy track days at Laguna Seca. I will do an oil sample lab test at ~3k miles and 3 track days under its belt. My temps were reaching 275F with heater on and 278 with heater off on track.
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Jester04
CivicX Basic Sponsor
I usually recommend my customers for the track to run a 5w-30 since it tends to hold pressure a bit better than the 0w-20. Also the oil shears a bit less.I'm still researching, what is Best, as it seems some of the thicker oils result in hotter water temps, and it seems like the Honda OEM oil is about the same wear as MOTUL 8100 0-20 at 100c, but it did fail earlier at room temp.
As far as some of the 0w-20's the Castrol Edge 0w-20 did better than both at lower temp on this friction test. There are many other variables to consider also.
As far as 5w-30's this specific Motul did insanely well, not like other Motul Formulas which looked similar to the 0w-20.Motul 8100 Eco nergy 5W30
Then there are Mobile 1 5w 20's failing badly at room temperature, not even at 100c - on this specific test. Most people are just guessing what oil to put in their car, without a half way scientific process. I guess it's similar to religion, just believe, and close your eyes, don't question.
This will take me some time to go through it all.
Valvoline Max life 5w-30 did also very good vs this Mobile 1 ESP formula
For sure the only known known, I can say comfortably that is a known known with stock OEM 0-20 or certified close options. Change it more often, 5-6 track days, or mix of track and road 2k mies and 3k miles with normal driving. That's what's an absolute known, known. Once an oil starts to degrade, and build with contaminants, especially if it changes to a darker color, you know it needs to go.
I personally have ~2,000 miles on stock FL5 Oil, and it's still bright yellow, with two heavy track days at Laguna Seca. I will do an oil sample lab test at ~3k miles and 3 track days under its belt. My temps were reaching 275F with heater on and 278 with heater off on track.
johnloov
Senior Member
1) Is higher oil pressure equal to more friction? That's what this guy is saying:
2) What about 0w-30 vs 5w-30.
This gentleman here is saying when he switched from 0-20 OEM to 0-20 8100 Motul, oil pressure went up a lot, and when he went to 5w-30 it went up further.
I heard it's important to protect the engine on startup, as 75% of the damage comes from startup, and if an engine is designed for 0w-20 then the tolerances of the engine accept this, and it stays cooler, and maybe it's best to get a higher performing 0w-20 vs a 5w-30? I am now very aware that all oils are not created equal and some 0w-20's outperform 5w-30's.
The Honda UK Owners Manual shows 0W-20 through 5W-30 viscosity oils are acceptable, so... maybe keep it at 0W and move up to a 0w-30 to get the best of both worlds?
Very curious on your thoughts on this topic.
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Jester04
CivicX Basic Sponsor
The 0w-20 is strictly for emission’s and MPG’s. The 5w-30 will protect better and it still flows well even in colder temperatures. But of course always consider the area you live in.
You do get more drag and will lose a bit of power with heavier weight oils but it will never be something you will be able to feel or even matter. Engine protection is paramount instead of straight up power.
Also keep in mind a good rule of thumb is 10psi of oil pressure per 1k revolutions. So at 7k you need 70psi, a bit less is acceptable but as the car heats up at the track and the oil thins out these pressures will be even lower.
I personally run 5w-30 all the time and I’m stepping to 10w-30 for the summer months here in Florida. But will run the 5w-30 for winter so it flows better when it is cool outside.
If you live in freezing climates, you can do 0w-30 for winter and just run 5w-30 for summer.
In this car you could even do a 5w-40 or a 10w-40 for track use.
svvitch
Senior Member
There are other oils that are NOT API certified but carry the euro certifications. The certifications are just a collection of tests. ACEA has different standards than API and most of the certifications such as MB, VW, Porsche, BMW. API happens to be US based, while ACEA is Euro. Not having a certification doesn't mean the oil is out of spec, just that the producer didn't go through the rigor or process to certify. Just like everything, there can be specialized solutions. For the rest of us, the certifications are useful.
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