FL5 Fuel Pump Relay Location

zumbooruk

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So now that I know the correct relay, how would I go about getting the switch into the cabin?

How did you route the wires through the firewall?
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PrecordFK7

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There's a main harness and grommet behind the battery once you remove the battery. Poke a hole/cut a slit and feed your wire through there into the cabin. It's the same one I used for the CanFlex and many others with amplifiers will run the power wire through the same spot as well.
 

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I was interested in the 41twentytwo kit but if the thieves can just drive off with your car what's the point? I'm sure they'll just pull over, pop the hood, then just replace the relay when the car stops. I'm just guessing here but the most dangerous part about stealing a car is someone coming out to confront you, that danger goes away once you're a few blocks away.
 

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I was interested in the 41twentytwo kit but if the thieves can just drive off with your car what's the point? I'm sure they'll just pull over, pop the hood, then just replace the relay when the car stops. I'm just guessing here but the most dangerous part about stealing a car is someone coming out to confront you, that danger goes away once you're a few blocks away.
Unless they have that specific fuse handy with them they're not going anywhere. The fuse is not interchangeable with the other fuses in the fuse box. They'll be lucky to make it a block or block and half with the fuel pump disabled.

Most people aren't so mechanically inclined to be able to diagnose the issue and remedy it in a minute or less, nor have an extra fuel pump fuse handy. I'd assume panic would kick in more than anything and they'll ditch the car.

It's not the end all be all, but it's just one more thing to stack amongst other measures to make stealing your car difficult.
 

raulsidea

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Someone doesn't just walk by and say "That a nice car, I'm going to steal it now" like the early days before immobilizers. Based on the equipment required to open the door, clone the key, and drive off, I'm guessing they'll be prepared with an inexpensive (common) relay. I'm just scrutinizing the product and wishing it targeted the starter as no thief want's to be in someone's driveway troubleshooting the issue.

Unless they have that specific fuse handy with them they're not going anywhere. The fuse is not interchangeable with the other fuses in the fuse box. They'll be lucky to make it a block or block and half with the fuel pump disabled.

Most people aren't so mechanically inclined to be able to diagnose the issue and remedy it in a minute or less, nor have an extra fuel pump fuse handy. I'd assume panic would kick in more than anything and they'll ditch the car.

It's not the end all be all, but it's just one more thing to stack amongst other measures to make stealing your car difficult.
 


PrecordFK7

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Someone doesn't just walk by and say "That a nice car, I'm going to steal it now" like the early days before immobilizers. Based on the equipment required to open the door, clone the key, and drive off, I'm guessing they'll be prepared with an inexpensive (common) relay. I'm just scrutinizing the product and wishing it targeted the starter as no thief want's to be in someone's driveway troubleshooting the issue.
It's a manual transmission car, the starter kill is useless to prevent theft on manual cars. You can push start the car in gear and start it, negating a starter kill on a manual car.
 

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However, PGM-relay 1 controls ignition coils, starter and injectors.

Thats what I would have thought the kit would have replaced. No spark and no fuel (injectors) wouldnt even start even with a push start. Its not a diesel so its not going to turn over with just compression :)

Its odd they would have made the kit for PGM-relay 2...
 

PrecordFK7

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However, PGM-relay 1 controls ignition coils, starter and injectors.

Thats what I would have thought the kit would have replaced. No spark and no fuel (injectors) wouldnt even start even with a push start. Its not a diesel so its not going to turn over with just compression :)

Its odd they would have made the kit for PGM-relay 2...
Good point, I think they just recycled the same pass thru fuse from all the other kits and it just happens to only work on the PGM 1 fuse on the newer generation Hondas. Maybe they'll update their kits going forward 🤞🏼
 

raulsidea

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However, PGM-relay 1 controls ignition coils, starter and injectors.

Thats what I would have thought the kit would have replaced. No spark and no fuel (injectors) wouldnt even start even with a push start. Its not a diesel so its not going to turn over with just compression :)

Its odd they would have made the kit for PGM-relay 2...
Honestly, I thought that's the relay that had to be swapped out till I started looking into it and found this thread.
 


zumbooruk

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However, PGM-relay 1 controls ignition coils, starter and injectors.

Thats what I would have thought the kit would have replaced. No spark and no fuel (injectors) wouldnt even start even with a push start. Its not a diesel so its not going to turn over with just compression :)

Its odd they would have made the kit for PGM-relay 2...
Per 4122, we can use the 4122 relay for PGM Relay 1 (but I have not tried it yet)

initial response from 4122 (they were super quick to reply)
The PGM-FI relays control the fuel injectors and Fuel Pump. Pull out the PGM-FI Main Relay 2 (which should control the Fuel Pump itself) and try to start your vehicle. If it just cranks and does not start, that should be the right location (the Kill Switch bypass relay mimics pulling out the relay physically) to replace it with the Bypass Relay. Hope that makes sense. Let me know.
so I pulled the OEM relay (PGM-FI Main Relay 2, the blue one) and was able to start the car and it kept running (I turned off the engine after about two minutes)

when I reported the above, I got this reply from 4122:
Have you tried pulling out the PGM 1 relay? Sometimes they work in conjunction but one of them has more control over the fuel pump.
 

zumbooruk

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Good point, I think they just recycled the same pass thru fuse from all the other kits and it just happens to only work on the PGM 1 fuse on the newer generation Hondas. Maybe they'll update their kits going forward 🤞🏼
Honestly, I thought that's the relay that had to be swapped out till I started looking into it and found this thread.
it is not a "fuse" it is a "relay".

the 4122 relay can be used in either PGM 1 or PGM 2, see above
Per 4122, we can use the 4122 relay for PGM Relay 1 (but I have not tried it yet)
 

PrecordFK7

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it is not a "fuse" it is a "relay".

the 4122 relay can be used in either PGM 1 or PGM 2, see above
I mispoke, I meant relay not fuse. I'm running it in the PGM-2 location (blue relay). I wasn't aware it could be used in the PGM-1 location and haven't tried. I do know the blue relay's slots are positioned where it will not work in any of the other relay slots in the under hood fuse box.
 

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I would exercise significant caution when considering a kill switch that interrupts the fuel pump circuit (such as the unit offered by 41.22 Inc.). If the device were to malfunction while the vehicle is in operation, it could immediately disable the fuel pump, potentially causing the engine to shut off and leaving you stranded in a hazardous location, such as the middle of a roadway or highway.

I understand it's a mechanical switch, but Murphy's Law. Relays are relays and relays fail. The ECU does monitor relays and should warn of a failing unit, but to my knowledge there isn't any available information on where 41.22 Inc sources their relay bypass modules.

I was going to run their equipment, but after digging just a bit, I decided not to out of abundance of caution.
 

PrecordFK7

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I would exercise significant caution when considering a kill switch that interrupts the fuel pump circuit (such as the unit offered by 41.22 Inc.). If the device were to malfunction while the vehicle is in operation, it could immediately disable the fuel pump, potentially causing the engine to shut off and leaving you stranded in a hazardous location, such as the middle of a roadway or highway.

I understand it's a mechanical switch, but Murphy's Law. Relays are relays and relays fail. The ECU does monitor relays and should warn of a failing unit, but to my knowledge there isn't any available information on where 41.22 Inc sources their relay bypass modules.

I was going to run their equipment, but after digging just a bit, I decided not to out of abundance of caution.
You can always keep the original relay in the glove box or empty slot in the fuse box and swap it back in if there was ever an issue with the 41.22 relay. That's what I did for peace of mind.
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