You can always keep the original relay in the glove box or empty slot in the fuse box and swap it back in if there was ever an issue with the 41.22 relay. That's what I did for peace of mind.
Wow, that's the first I'm hearing you can do it without removing the subframe! That gives me some hope to tackle this sooner than later if I can avoid dropping the subframe. Thanks for the info.
Too bad the track conditions were so wet to start the day. I didn’t catch it in the video but I’m guessing the baffle solved the pressure drops on the long right handers. I hope you post a video of the baffle install, I’m curious to see all the steps required to drop the oil pan.
I mispoke, I meant relay not fuse. I'm running it in the PGM-2 location (blue relay). I wasn't aware it could be used in the PGM-1 location and haven't tried. I do know the blue relay's slots are positioned where it will not work in any of the other relay slots in the under hood fuse box.
Good point, I think they just recycled the same pass thru fuse from all the other kits and it just happens to only work on the PGM 1 fuse on the newer generation Hondas. Maybe they'll update their kits going forward 🤞🏼
It's a manual transmission car, the starter kill is useless to prevent theft on manual cars. You can push start the car in gear and start it, negating a starter kill on a manual car.
Unless they have that specific fuse handy with them they're not going anywhere. The fuse is not interchangeable with the other fuses in the fuse box. They'll be lucky to make it a block or block and half with the fuel pump disabled.
Most people aren't so mechanically inclined to be able to...
The OE FL5 end links are actually pretty heavy duty and can be used with the RV6 by themselves. There's no need to go with Accord endlinks if you own a FL5/DE5. The base model Civic has plastic endlinks, the FL5/DE5 on the otherhand have a very heavy metal endlink. The price of the FL5 endlinks...
There's a main harness and grommet behind the battery once you remove the battery. Poke a hole/cut a slit and feed your wire through there into the cabin. It's the same one I used for the CanFlex and many others with amplifiers will run the power wire through the same spot as well.
Just pulled my FL5 H&R Springs (Part # 28714-2) from my car after 6,000 miles. Car rode really nice with these and the most mild drop out of any lowering spring out there. Replaced these springs with Spoon for a little more track oriented performance.
$175 picked up in N. Orange County.
I'm not sure if the pass through fuse provided by 41TwentyTwo will work in the PGM-1 slot or not. I haven't tried it, but believe they are different and not interchangeable.
Even if you pull PGM-2 the car will still start and run for a little bit. It's when all the fuel in the lines is exhausted the car will die and throw the Christmas tree off lights on the dash. I like the way it works because if someone were to steal the car they could start it, drive a block or...
I have the 41TwentyTwo kill switch hooked up and replaced the blue relay fuse with the 41TwentyTwo supplied relay. Fuel pump kill switch works as intended on my car.
Depending on the courier they'll reach out to you for payment before/after delivery, based on personal experience DHL/UPS request payment before delivering. FedEx on the other hand, based on my experience will deliver first and then reach out for payment. Japan has a 15% rate, but car parts...
Nice! Glad to see others running Dixcel pads. I made my Zs my track pads as I get started tracking. They have withstood all the heat I could throw at them and stop like an anchor. I use M on the street or a combo of S front and M rears, the M are the ultimate street pad in my eyes. No dust, no...
I was wondering how much room there was before hitting the chassis. Sounds like you can get an extra -0.5° comfortably with these. Very good to know. I like the idea of having a little adjustment vs fixed 1° increments with the ball joints.