FL5 Aftermarket Amp & Subwoofer Installation Advice

[TEAMM_AP1]

Did this fit in the stock woofer box?

I haven’t installed it yet. Based on research yes it does.

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[Zone47]

I want to do the same thing. This audio is worse than my base GTI -S system with no sub.

Ideally I'd like to do a speaker upgrade but it doesn't sound like it will work too well. The next thing would be to tap off line level sub audio into a good amp and then to and upgraded sub but not sure that will work either ... it would be way easier with a schematic.

The last idea was to just run a small separate box in the rear hatch with an amp'd sub but still messing around with details.

Does anyone have a schematic of the Type R audio circuit or where to get one?

 

[rondre3000]

Easiest thing to do would be to toss in something like a Fosgate P300 powered subwoofer enclosure. You can tap off the existing factory cabling that goes to the Bose 8" subwoofer in the trunk. Then run your power, ground and remote cable to the box and you're good to go. This is what I did in my FK8 and it ran great for nearly 8 years.

I just pulled this enclosure out to replace with a shallow depth 8" subwoofer in the factory location so I could get my trunk space back. Used an LC2i and mono amp for signaling and power to the sub. A few more wires to connect and doesn't hit nearly as hard/deep but tradeoffs...

Take a look at YouTube for all of your answers. I'm about to do the same 8" sub + amp + LOC install in my FL5 next.

 

[rondre3000]

Just another data point. In my FL5, an LC2i was not necessary. A $17 Kicker LOC is just fine and I'm not seeing anything I'd need Accubass to resolve. The FL5 factory enclosure is actually ported and not sealed like the one in my 2017 Sport Touring.

For under $350 in equipment and material I am VERY happy with the outcome!

 

[actingbusy]

Hope this helps anyone considering the amped subwoofer upgrade. I ended up going the Amped route along with the LC2i as the LOC specifically to use the AccuBass feature. I’m using a JL Audio JD250/1 amp that has high level inputs but when I installed it without the LOC, it lacked bass. Added the LOC AND after setting my gains, I’m able to keep the bass on the BOSE head unit at about 25% which limits distortion at the door speakers. I installed the remote level controller for the amp so I’m able to adjust bass levels according to what I’m listening to while having little distortion. The subwoofer I went with is the JL 8w1v3. No polyfill, no sound deadening and I’m actually very very impressed with the amount of bass out of the sub. It wiggles the nose and for an entry level 8”, I was not expecting that. Picked up the amp on eBay for $120 and the sub for $150 and the LC2i was picked up for $75 plus about $80 for the amp wiring kit along with miscellaneous accessories such as a quick disconnect in case I actually need to use the spare tire. All in I’m close to $425 for some extraordinary bass. I did have a slight rattle at the rear license plate but was able to place some carpet lining foam in between the plate and the rear hatch. And that eliminated the slight noise. I do plan on upgrading the front and rear speakers with the Memphis Audio since they do offer the 6.5” in both 4 and 2 ohm versions. I’ll make another post with the results of that upgrade in the near future. Thanks Icehawk for the inspiration

 

[jtlctr]

Hope this helps anyone considering the amped subwoofer upgrade. I ended up going the Amped route along with the LC2i as the LOC specifically to use the AccuBass feature. I’m using a JL Audio JD250/1 amp that has high level inputs but when I installed it without the LOC, it lacked bass. Added the LOC AND after setting my gains, I’m able to keep the bass on the BOSE head unit at about 25% which limits distortion at the door speakers. I installed the remote level controller for the amp so I’m able to adjust bass levels according to what I’m listening to while having little distortion. The subwoofer I went with is the JL 8w1v3. No polyfill, no sound deadening and I’m actually very very impressed with the amount of bass out of the sub. It wiggles the nose and for an entry level 8”, I was not expecting that. Picked up the amp on eBay for $120 and the sub for $150 and the LC2i was picked up for $75 plus about $80 for the amp wiring kit along with miscellaneous accessories such as a quick disconnect in case I actually need to use the spare tire. All in I’m close to $425 for some extraordinary bass. I did have a slight rattle at the rear license plate but was able to place some carpet lining foam in between the plate and the rear hatch. And that eliminated the slight noise. I do plan on upgrading the front and rear speakers with the Memphis Audio since they do offer the 6.5” in both 4 and 2 ohm versions. I’ll make another post with the results of that upgrade in the near future. Thanks Icehawk for the inspiration

I really like the idea of being able to adjust the sub output. I can’t stand it when, after the car sitting in the sun for a while, certain tracks are overwhelmed by bass.

 

[actingbusy]

I really like the idea of being able to adjust the sub output. I can’t stand it when, after the car sitting in the sun for a while, certain tracks are overwhelmed by bass.

Yea I agree and having to leave the carplay screen to return to the sound settings menu in the headunit is a pain in the ass just to adjust the bass level. Mounted the knob in the empty space near the factory traction control button. Looks stock and is easily accessible mid song.

 

[actingbusy]

I want to do the same thing. This audio is worse than my base GTI -S system with no sub.

Ideally I'd like to do a speaker upgrade but it doesn't sound like it will work too well. The next thing would be to tap off line level sub audio into a good amp and then to and upgraded sub but not sure that will work either ... it would be way easier with a schematic.

The last idea was to just run a small separate box in the rear hatch with an amp'd sub but still messing around with details.

Does anyone have a schematic of the Type R audio circuit or where to get one?

Did you ever try the install? Maybe this video can clear some things up for you since he explains where to tap and is real clear about which wires are +/-.

 

[rondre3000]

Hope this helps anyone considering the amped subwoofer upgrade. I ended up going the Amped route along with the LC2i as the LOC specifically to use the AccuBass feature. I’m using a JL Audio JD250/1 amp that has high level inputs but when I installed it without the LOC, it lacked bass. Added the LOC AND after setting my gains, I’m able to keep the bass on the BOSE head unit at about 25% which limits distortion at the door speakers. I installed the remote level controller for the amp so I’m able to adjust bass levels according to what I’m listening to while having little distortion. The subwoofer I went with is the JL 8w1v3. No polyfill, no sound deadening and I’m actually very very impressed with the amount of bass out of the sub. It wiggles the nose and for an entry level 8”, I was not expecting that. Picked up the amp on eBay for $120 and the sub for $150 and the LC2i was picked up for $75 plus about $80 for the amp wiring kit along with miscellaneous accessories such as a quick disconnect in case I actually need to use the spare tire. All in I’m close to $425 for some extraordinary bass. I did have a slight rattle at the rear license plate but was able to place some carpet lining foam in between the plate and the rear hatch. And that eliminated the slight noise. I do plan on upgrading the front and rear speakers with the Memphis Audio since they do offer the 6.5” in both 4 and 2 ohm versions. I’ll make another post with the results of that upgrade in the near future. Thanks Icehawk for the inspiration

Great post with a ton of detail. Interesting that you found the LC2i necessary. I found the opposite in my FL5, but in my 2017 Sport Touring there was definitely a difference with and without it.

 

[jtlctr]

Yea I agree and having to leave the carplay screen to return to the sound settings menu in the headunit is a pain in the ass just to adjust the bass level. Mounted the knob in the empty space near the factory traction control button. Looks stock and is easily accessible mid song.

Yeah, having to navigate through all the menus to make an adjustment ruins the pleasure of listening to music while driving, not to mention the safety issues. Plus, it’s just the sub that I want to adjust.
Thank you for the write up! I’ll be looking into this. I’m also curious to hear your results of the speaker replacement if you do that.

 

[Zone47]

Did you ever try the install? Maybe this video can clear some things up for you since he explains where to tap and is real clear about which wires are +/-.

Thanks man, that was good and very helpful!!

 

[KillaCam910]

i just completed it myself it was surprisingly easy to do.. Glad i save 1500 on an install

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