Brake fluid leaking from bleeder

[shijima_ending]

In August I had a local Honda speed shop flush my factory brake fluid with Castrol SRF in preparation for my track day later that month. After the track day, I noticed a slight trail of brake fluid running down the caliper. I contacted the shop and we both agreed that it was perhaps some residual fluid from the flush and nothing to worry about. Should be noted that the bleeder screw is torqued to spec, 10 lbft.

Then it happened again after a moderate canyon run this weekend. It still was not a lot. And I still have ample pressure in my brake pedal.

This doesn't happen when daily driving. Only moderate spirited driving. I know what it does to the clear coat on the calipers so I hope I'm catching these leaks in time....

Anyone have any ideas?

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[ctechauto]

Are the bleeder screw threads clean both male and female ends? Sometimes it can get gunked up, and false positive on the torque reading. Not enough and could lead to leaks, too much and could damage threads all because they are gunked up.

Also, did you check the hardlines on the caliper to see if they're tight?

 

[shijima_ending]

Are the bleeder screw threads clean both male and female ends? Sometimes it can get gunked up, and false positive on the torque reading. Not enough and could lead to leaks, too much and could damage threads all because they are gunked up.

Also, did you check the hardlines on the caliper to see if they're tight?

I did not do any of the work. All I've done so far clean the area. I don't even have the right crowfoot adapter for my torque wrench so I ordered that now. Once I get that I can then verify the torque spec.

I contacted the shop yesterday to see if they can check it out. And they informed me they are actually shutting down. Not sure why but they're great people who do good work. I have some alternative places but for now I have to diagnose on my own.

 

[MooMoo]

We are sure its torqued to 10?
And is it torqued to 10 now but was torqued to 20 at some point?
There is issues with these calipers, aluminum so pretty soft, the way the bleeder seals is because its just sits perfectly in, if its over torqued it can get damaged and not seal properly.

Also as ctechauto means undertorquing is also no bueno and can lead to leaks.

Another issue is torquing these with a torque wrench that is too big. The bigger wrenches that do say 10-100 are not accurate in the lower 20% range so make sure you are using something adequate for this.

However I would not say this is the issue yet. There would be residual fluid on the nipple and as it gets hot it is coming out. Remove the rubber boot and clean the nipple. Personally what I would do is, re-check torque. Keep an eye on it every time you take it to a spirited drive and see if it is still occuring.

 

[MooMoo]

I did not do any of the work. All I've done so far clean the area. I don't even have the right crowfoot adapter for my torque wrench so I ordered that now. Once I get that I can then verify the torque spec.

I contacted the shop yesterday to see if they can check it out. And they informed me they are actually shutting down. Not sure why but they're great people who do good work. I have some alternative places but for now I have to diagnose on my own.

I dunno your shop but I know a lot of shops don't check torque specs for certain things... nipples, oil drain plugs, ect...

Again make sure you don't use a torque wrench where the last 20% of the range is the number of torque. Also you don't need crows foot, just an 11mm (I believe, or 12mm I forget)

 

[ctechauto]

Use a flare nut wrench rather than a normal 6pt wrench. They're better to use on sensitive things like caliper bleeder screws.

 

[shijima_ending]

We are sure its torqued to 10?
And is it torqued to 10 now but was torqued to 20 at some point?
There is issues with these calipers, aluminum so pretty soft, the way the bleeder seals is because its just sits perfectly in, if its over torqued it can get damaged and not seal properly.

Also as ctechauto means undertorquing is also no bueno and can lead to leaks.

Another issue is torquing these with a torque wrench that is too big. The bigger wrenches that do say 10-100 are not accurate in the lower 20% range so make sure you are using something adequate for this.

However I would not say this is the issue yet. There would be residual fluid on the nipple and as it gets hot it is coming out. Remove the rubber boot and clean the nipple. Personally what I would do is, re-check torque. Keep an eye on it every time you take it to a spirited drive and see if it is still occuring.

They are the ones that told me the torque spec was 10 lbft and that's what they followed. What could've happened before that, idk....

All I have are Craftsman 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches so maybe I'll have to get something smaller

I agree on that last part. I truly think it could be some residual. My pedal feels fine.

 

[MooMoo]

They are the ones that told me the torque spec was 10 lbft and that's what they followed. What could've happened before that, idk....

All I have is 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches so maybe I'll have to get something smaller

I agree on that last part. I truly think it could be some residual. My pedal feels fine.

I think 10 is right, I forget but if they mentioned the value means they likely did it right.

And yeah you should get a 1/4 because pretty sure all the 3/8ths start at like 10 and won't be accurate likely down low.


I had the residual thing happen to me and it did it on a track day right after and then a few times after. Then it stopped.

 

[PNEUMA]

As others have stated, may be residual fluid in the bleeder screw itself.

Buy yourself a 1/4” drive torque wrench -typically used by bicycle mechanics.

lastly, I would also purchase a new bleeder screw. Especially in the event that the leak persists after other scenarios are double checked.

 

[MooMoo]

if leak persists I would buy some of these

https://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php


Also great to bleed the calipers without tools. They are like speed bleeders but better because you don't have to keep unscrewing them of the caliper, part stays in the caliper and only the head unscrews for bleeding.

 

[PNEUMA]

if leak persists I would buy some of these

https://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/bleeding-system/index.php


Also great to bleed the calipers without tools. They are like speed bleeders but better because you don't have to keep unscrewing them of the caliper, part stays in the caliper and only the head unscrews for bleeding.

Those are nice!! Couldn’t find a listing by mfg/model for our cars

 

[MooMoo]

Those are nice!! Couldn’t find a listing by mfg/model for our cars

I messaged them a while ago and said jr could be a certain model, I can try to find out which. I ended up not buying it because I don’t bleed all that much but might eventually get em. The brembos we have have been out since like 2005 so they definitely make some for them.

 

[Rhorn]

Is it possible that they didn't do the proper bleeding sequence? After you go through bleeding them you do need to cycle the parking brake 5 times and then redo the rears. Thats normal so unless you know you probably aren't going to do that

 

[shijima_ending]

Is it possible that they didn't do the proper bleeding sequence? After you go through bleeding them you do need to cycle the parking brake 5 times and then redo the rears. Thats normal so unless you know you probably aren't going to do that

couldn't tell you. i can dm them and see if they remember.

but what exactly would that have to do with the leaking?

 

[Rhorn]

couldn't tell you. i can dm them and see if they remember.

but what exactly would that have to do with the leaking?

Not sure, its just a suggestion. I personally never torqued down the bleeder screws to 10 ft lbs, I just tightened them back with the wrench and haven't had any bleeding. I've done like 8 track days and cooked my rear brakes one day

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