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Where i was stuck trying to decide was : Kuro vs kuro+ on 93 with injectors and hpfp?

Do I need low pressure pump or injectors for kuro or just hpfp? I figured maybe future proof It with injectors if I ever go E or bigger turbo but was curious if it was needed for Kuro.

Neither. Wunderladen is far superior to all on the market! Trust me. Very little vibration and so strong now! Perfect tip in with the throttle!

So I was looking at the RV6 turbo, but I decided that I'm going to stick with 20Won. Below is my current mods and the ones I will install with the turbo upgrade. I dont Want to have a lot of turbo lag, but I also know that the Kuro Plus is definitely making a lot more power up top than the Kuro...

I have worked on all my cars but the hpfp on this car I dont want to mess with. Have to time the crank, and the intake manifold removal is necessary to do injectors and rail. It takes longer to do the rail and injectors then to install the turbo and downpipe.

So I just want to make sure I understand correctly. Even with Kuro, I need injectors and HPFP in order to take advantage?

So Kuro with high pressure fuel pump good. Kuro+ will need injectors too?

Very nice! If I just go Kuro stock fuel system vs kuro + allrace high pressure pump. Would that be a good setup? i dont want to do injectors and build the whole car.

can I run Kuro+ with the $2,000 all race rail and high pressure pump next to the valve cover? Or would I have to run Kuro? What is whp on the kuro with high pressure fuel pump? DROB says higher rpm redline with the upgraded high pressure pump. this is all i need for kuro or kuro+? pump below...

I heard that the stock rods can only handle 400whp? The KURO (not +) with FBO and intercooler is around 450whp-475whp with stock fuel system. I figured since I am doing TSP Efficiency DP that I might as well do that too. I just dont want to go too far on the engine. Also was thinking about...

Thats what I have heard. Based on this analogy My experience with my Spoons is comfort+/Comfort/Sport lol Definitely stops most bounce and slight softer. Very good springs

Anyone running this, is it worth it? I am thinking since I am doing the intercooler now would be the time! I would have to remove the shroud...

I wonder if the rv6 counted down pipe would throw a code? I have rv6 front pipe so I really want to possibly grab this one anyone have experience with it? https://www.twostepperformance.com/products/high-temp-catted-downpipe-for-18-accord-2-0t

Is it turbo whistle and sound going to be a lot louder with efficiency downpipe versus the stock one? I've heard that with my PRL intake and turbo inlet pipe as well as a front exhaust pipe high efficiency down pipe and full exhaust it should make about 380 whp with a tsp stage 1 tune is that...

Also what about 02 non foulers? There are adapters I have used that actually work well. I have stacked 2 spark flug non foulers on my old bmw m3 and elongated the center out. Never had a light.

TSP said they don't offer their tunes with turning off the O2 sensors, but they said they have a high efficiency cat. In their downpipe. That has good gains. Is this going to be as good as catalyst? I really want to hear that turbo whistle like I had on my old BMW with the catless downpipe...

I went with spoon LOL

so I installed the PRL steering wheel and replaced it with a brand new steering column Bolt from honda. The factory one was definitely not 36 lb for the torque like the factory spec says. I had to put a breaker bar on there and pull with both arms against the steering wheel lock and it cracked...

Just did these three mods. Simple yet looks amazing. Let's see your interiors!

So I'm looking at the following springs. I don't plan on really ever going to a road course or track more for street comfort and highway driving. I also plan on adding the rear SPC or eibach camber control arms. From what I've read, I don't need to buy an adjustable lower arm for toe adjustment...