PRL air filter PSA

[jtlctr]

I just replaced the filter from my PRL HVI with an AEM Dryflow because I was not comfortable with the potentially poor filtration characteristics of an oiled filter. I’m glad I didn’t wait any longer! There was visible dust inside the MAF tube and the filter material looks holier than the Pope. I know they need to be cleaned and re-oiled periodically, but this is after about 5k miles, and the filter itself looked very clean.
Something to think about if you drive on the earth where dust is always present.

Here is a comparison looking through the two filters with a relatively dim florescent light behind:
AEM

PRL

 

[PRL Motorsports]

This is a great topic, and it’s important to understand the trade-offs between different filter types.
Our oiled filters are engineered with a multi-layer cotton gauze media designed to balance airflow and filtration. When properly maintained and installed, they provide excellent protection for street and performance use, and are commonly used in motorsports applications where maximum airflow is critical. That said, like any performance filter (oiled or dry), regular inspection and maintenance are key, especially in dusty environments.
It’s worth noting:

• Oiled filters can appear more “open” to the eye due to their cotton gauze construction, but the oil plays a vital role in trapping fine dust particles.
• Dry filters, like the AEM Dryflow, tend to use synthetic materials with a finer mesh, which may offer slightly better filtration in dusty conditions but can also restrict airflow more than a clean oiled filter.

Ultimately, the best choice depends on your environment, maintenance habits, and performance goals.
We're always listening to customer feedback like this to help guide product development and education, so thanks again for bringing it up.

 

[nttran98]

This is a great topic, and it’s important to understand the trade-offs between different filter types.
Our oiled filters are engineered with a multi-layer cotton gauze media designed to balance airflow and filtration. When properly maintained and installed, they provide excellent protection for street and performance use, and are commonly used in motorsports applications where maximum airflow is critical. That said, like any performance filter (oiled or dry), regular inspection and maintenance are key, especially in dusty environments.
It’s worth noting:

• Oiled filters can appear more “open” to the eye due to their cotton gauze construction, but the oil plays a vital role in trapping fine dust particles.
• Dry filters, like the AEM Dryflow, tend to use synthetic materials with a finer mesh, which may offer slightly better filtration in dusty conditions but can also restrict airflow more than a clean oiled filter.

Ultimately, the best choice depends on your environment, maintenance habits, and performance goals.
We're always listening to customer feedback like this to help guide product development and education, so thanks again for bringing it up.

Appreciate it, maybe make it optional in the purchase selection, just an idea ya know.

 

[typerawrr]

This is a great topic, and it’s important to understand the trade-offs between different filter types.
Our oiled filters are engineered with a multi-layer cotton gauze media designed to balance airflow and filtration. When properly maintained and installed, they provide excellent protection for street and performance use, and are commonly used in motorsports applications where maximum airflow is critical. That said, like any performance filter (oiled or dry), regular inspection and maintenance are key, especially in dusty environments.
It’s worth noting:

• Oiled filters can appear more “open” to the eye due to their cotton gauze construction, but the oil plays a vital role in trapping fine dust particles.
• Dry filters, like the AEM Dryflow, tend to use synthetic materials with a finer mesh, which may offer slightly better filtration in dusty conditions but can also restrict airflow more than a clean oiled filter.

Ultimately, the best choice depends on your environment, maintenance habits, and performance goals.
We're always listening to customer feedback like this to help guide product development and education, so thanks again for bringing it up.

Is there a reason you guys made it so hard to change out and clean?

 

[Two Step Performance]

Is there a reason you guys made it so hard to change out and clean?

I can have the airbox out of the car and the filter off in less than 5 minutes easily. This is pretty reasonable in my opinion.

 

[typerawrr]

I can have the airbox out of the car and the filter off in less than 5 minutes easily. This is pretty reasonable in my opinion.

Maybe it just me, but it was hard for me to get everything to fit back in just right when I installed it a month ago. I just need more practice i guess

 

[Stanleywinthrop]

What's the part # for the aem filter?

 

[Two Step Performance]

Maybe it just me, but it was hard for me to get everything to fit back in just right when I installed it a month ago. I just need more practice i guess

I have a LOT of practice thanks to numerous turbo installs and such. Best practices are to loosen the three bolts that secure the airbox itself (2 on front, 1 on the back) and also the couplers on the inlet pipe, maybe even the inlet pipe to cylinder head mounting bolt. This gives you a lot of room to work with and you can pop the airbox in and out fairly easily from there.

 

[jtlctr]

What's the part # for the aem filter?

The AEM P/N that I used is 21-2093DK (credit to @timestamped for figuring this out originally). However, the AEM filter has a flange ID of 6”, and the PRL filter mount flange is about 5.7” give or take, so it’s a loose fit. It does seem to clamp on without distorting, but I didn’t really love it. Plus, the AEM filter is a little smaller which may or may not make any real difference. That being said, another filter company called AWE makes a filter that seems to have the same filter area of the original PRL, and has a 5.5” ID flange, which I believe will stretch enough to work. In fact, the original PRL filter might have a 5.5 ID because I remember having to stretch that a bit to get over the MAF tube. The AWE number is TF-9007D. I’m considering trying this one.

 

[PRL Motorsports]

Appreciate it, maybe make it optional in the purchase selection, just an idea ya know.

Right now we only offer the oiled filters, but options are always nice to have. I'll toss that idea to development. Maybe we can even just add a dry-flow filter to the site by itself for an option upon first service of the filter

 

[jtlctr]

I just noticed that I mistakenly wrote “AWE” when I meant to write “AFE” for the filter brand I would like to try. Sorry, Christian!

 

[MooMoo]

Maybe it just me, but it was hard for me to get everything to fit back in just right when I installed it a month ago. I just need more practice i guess

its not just you, its a pain in the ass to remove the filter. Just because someone can do it in 5 minutes it does not make it less of a pain in the ass.

I know someone in the forum here that can remove the front bumper in 6 minutes (no exaggeration, I timed it), but it still is a huge pain in the ass for me to do so. For a 5 min removal you have to remove the ECU which could always be sketchy (I didn't even remove it when I installed the intake). Woulda been better to have the top come out instead of the side, woulda been probably harder to design and definitely would have looked worst.

This is a good topic, I will probably switch to a dry filter eventually.

 

[champ_white_FL5]

The AEM P/N that I used is 21-2093DK (credit to @timestamped for figuring this out originally). However, the AEM filter has a flange ID of 6”, and the PRL filter mount flange is about 5.7” give or take, so it’s a loose fit. It does seem to clamp on without distorting, but I didn’t really love it. Plus, the AEM filter is a little smaller which may or may not make any real difference. That being said, another filter company called AWE makes a filter that seems to have the same filter area of the original PRL, and has a 5.5” ID flange, which I believe will stretch enough to work. In fact, the original PRL filter might have a 5.5 ID because I remember having to stretch that a bit to get over the MAF tube. The AWE number is TF-9007D. I’m considering trying this one.

I was worried about the loose fit of the AEM as well. It holds tight, but I can't guarantee that the flange isn't pinching and creating small air gaps when compressed. My solution to this was wrapping the PRL velocity stack with some silicone self fusing tape. It seems to have worked great. To test, I put a small layer of grease on the filter flange then Installed and tightened the filter over the velocity stack. When I removed the filter, the tape on the velocity stack shows a clear imprint of grease all around the tape on the velocity stack. I'm pretty confident this is creating a good seal. Might be something to look into before you order another filter. Those AFE filters are pretty pricey.

I ultimately wish PRL would either size their velocity stacks in a more common size, or offer a dryflow variant of filter. I too noticed dust in the MAF housing after using the PRL filter for a bit.

 

[champ_white_FL5]

Right now we only offer the oiled filters, but options are always nice to have. I'll toss that idea to development. Maybe we can even just add a dry-flow filter to the site by itself for an option upon first service of the filter

Please do! I really enjoy the look and sound of the HVI but don't feel comfortable using the PRL filter long term.

 

[jtlctr]

I was worried about the loose fit of the AEM as well. It holds tight, but I can't guarantee that the flange isn't pinching and creating small air gaps when compressed. My solution to this was wrapping the PRL velocity stack with some silicone self fusing tape. It seems to have worked great. To test, I put a small layer of grease on the filter flange then Installed and tightened the filter over the velocity stack. When I removed the filter, the tape on the velocity stack shows a clear imprint of grease all around the tape on the velocity stack. I'm pretty confident this is creating a good seal. Might be something to look into before you order another filter. Those AFE filters are pretty pricey.

I ultimately wish PRL would either size their velocity stacks in a more common size, or offer a dryflow variant of filter. I too noticed dust in the MAF housing after using the PRL filter for a bit.

Good idea! I tightened the clamp with the filter off to the point where the flange fit snugly, then inspected it for uniformity before installing. It looked nice and round, but I like your idea.

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