Stripped Engine Block Threads

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Domo_K

Domo_K

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Sorry for the duplicates guys. I don't know what I was doing wrong lol.
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Good luck for this difficult job, and I wish you success.
Thanks! It's already done. I have been driving around for a week now. I had to deal with a few leaks of oil and coolant and now I have to replace my PCV valve but it seems to be running good.
 

cwtechshiz

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I appreciate this post. Takes effort to post your own mistake and solutions. Hope it lasts dude. Would you do it again? lol I've been extra procrastinating installing my headstuds
 
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I appreciate this post. Takes effort to post your own mistake and solutions. Hope it lasts dude. Would you do it again? lol I've been extra procrastinating installing my headstuds
Thank you..

I would do it again in heart beat.. I have learned so much about my car now that I can change almost any part, barring transmissin job but eventually I want to do that too. Still running strong btw. I have driven distances over and hour and I can mash on the pedal a bit. I have not taken her to redline yet.

I did do this without any guarantees that I would not be paying that 12k the shop wanted but I look to be in the clear. My advice to you if you wanted to do the 1 by 1 method. Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser. I just tried to spray with brake cleaner over and over. If the crud is too thick, it will not come out and take your time. If it doesn't go down by hand easily, do not force it like I did.

Also make sure to lube only on the top of the washer under the nut. The textured side that bites into the head should be dry. If you start, good luck. Once you remove one head bolt, you could be going past the point of no return but, I think you could just put the old one back if you want to do it temporarily. I recommend torquing to 65ft lbs instead of ARP's 70ft lbs. You could run the risk of ripping out the threads anyway if you are off slightly. You are playing at the edge at 70ft lbs, and if you want 70 then go with a digital torque wrench and go slow.

Last thing I will say is if God forbid it does happen, I hope you can be resourceful because once shops and dealerships smell blood in the water, they are taking you for a ride. They will have you by the balls at that point. I refused to let them have that satisfaction.

DM me if you need any help but I am sure you are more than good. I don't even know much compared to these guys here lol.
 


Stanleywinthrop

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Thank you..

I would do it again in heart beat.. I have learned so much about my car now that I can change almost any part, barring transmissin job but eventually I want to do that too. Still running strong btw. I have driven distances over and hour and I can mash on the pedal a bit. I have not taken her to redline yet.

I did do this without any guarantees that I would not be paying that 12k the shop wanted but I look to be in the clear. My advice to you if you wanted to do the 1 by 1 method. Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser. I just tried to spray with brake cleaner over and over. If the crud is too thick, it will not come out and take your time. If it doesn't go down by hand easily, do not force it like I did.

Also make sure to lube only on the top of the washer under the nut. The textured side that bites into the head should be dry. If you start, good luck. Once you remove one head bolt, you could be going past the point of no return but, I think you could just put the old one back if you want to do it temporarily. I recommend torquing to 65ft lbs instead of ARP's 70ft lbs. You could run the risk of ripping out the threads anyway if you are off slightly. You are playing at the edge at 70ft lbs, and if you want 70 then go with a digital torque wrench and go slow.

Last thing I will say is if God forbid it does happen, I hope you can be resourceful because once shops and dealerships smell blood in the water, they are taking you for a ride. They will have you by the balls at that point. I refused to let them have that satisfaction.

DM me if you need any help but I am sure you are more than good. I don't even know much compared to these guys here lol.
"Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser."

Can you elaborate on this more? Thanks
 
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Domo_K

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"Cut reliefs into an old head bolt and use it as a thread chaser."

Can you elaborate on this more? Thanks
Okay, so basically take a grinder and cut 4 even spaced lines down the threads. This creates pockets to clean out any gunk out that is stuck down in the block. You want to run these in and out to get trapped liquid and garbage out, spray brake cleaner, blow it out and repeat until clean and the studs can run down easily with no resistance.

When I get home, I will try to find the old head bolts and take pictures. I should still have them all.
 

Stanleywinthrop

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Okay, so basically take a grinder and cut 4 even spaced lines down the threads. This creates pockets to clean out any gunk out that is stuck down in the block. This was my fatal mistake. When I get home, I will try to find the old head bolts and take pictures. I should still have them all.
Awesome thanks man. I assume you could do it with a Dremel as well?
 
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Domo_K

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Awesome thanks man. I assume you could do it with a Dremel as well?
Yes, Dremel should be fine. Just make sure its deep enough and relatively straight. And no problem! If I can save at least one person from what I went through, it was worth posting.
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