Rear Pad replacement at 9k?

[RMA]

This is common on the ITS also. I had to change my rear pads and resurface the rear rotors at 12-13k. Dealer charged $470? at the time. I read that the e brake button attributes to the rear pad wear. Ever since then I rarely engage it. I now have 2300 miles or so on my R, just normal daily driving. Do you guys get the rotors resurfaced too ?

Sponsored

 

[ThunderPigeon]

This is common on the ITS also. I had to change my rear pads and resurface the rear rotors at 12-13k. Dealer charged $470? at the time. I read that the e brake button attributes to the rear pad wear. Ever since then I rarely engage it. I now have 2300 miles or so on my R, just normal daily driving. Do you guys get the rotors resurfaced too ?

I planned on just doing pads and I was going to swap the rotors to a set of 2 piece like the front next pad change. I will probably do just OEM rear pads for now and worry about it again in 9k miles. Only if the rotors look good after inspection that is.

 

[nattypiso]

Damn, my FL5 is a daily driver with spirited driving every once in awhile. Earlier this year, around April, I went to my local Honda dealership for the worm gear recall, and Honda mentioned that my rear pads were just about to be finished (car had 33k miles) with the fronts still around 40-50%.

I ended up replacing both front and rears with ceramics, but I was curious to how most of you guys are only getting 8-12k miles out of your rears?

 

[ThunderPigeon]

Damn, my FL5 is a daily driver with spirited driving every once in awhile. Earlier this year, around April, I went to my local Honda dealership for the worm gear recall, and Honda mentioned that my rear pads were just about to be finished (car had 33k miles) with the fronts still around 40-50%.

I ended up replacing both front and rears with ceramics, but I was curious to how most of you guys are only getting 8-12k miles out of your rears?

You're using it wrong, lol

 

[apl360]

Damn, my FL5 is a daily driver with spirited driving every once in awhile. Earlier this year, around April, I went to my local Honda dealership for the worm gear recall, and Honda mentioned that my rear pads were just about to be finished (car had 33k miles) with the fronts still around 40-50%.

I ended up replacing both front and rears with ceramics, but I was curious to how most of you guys are only getting 8-12k miles out of your rears?

My guess. They drive aggressively or aggressive enough. I for one drive like an asshole. At 2600 miles a few weeks ago. It looks like I lost almost 1mm in the front and like damn near 2mm in the rear

 

[optronix]

The traction control/torque vectoring is one of the not-so-well-documented differences between the Integra Type S and Civic Type R. But for my Integra, I'm ~19k miles and the brakes will need done soon but they're still acceptable. I drive the car hard, but perhaps not as hard as some folks on the street. My car has been through a track day and probably ~150 autocross runs and the brakes are still holding up.

The key point to mention though is I fully turn off traction control (via pedal dance) for any sort of "intentional" driving I do, including backroads driving on public roads (I left it on during one particularly wet autocross day).

As I understand it, most of you fl5 guys elect to not do the pedal dance, as apparently +R mode retains some sort of torque vectoring advantage? I don't know what the exact logic is as I don't own an fl5. But my guess is it has something to do with why your brakes are going in half the time mine did, despite some of you reporting zero autocross or track usage.

 

[TchnoZ33]

https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/rear-break-pad-cost-to-change.55928/#post-926965

Check out this thread.

 

[nattypiso]

You're using it wrong, lol

Haha I’m pushing around 570HP / 450TQ on an E45 blend, I doubt I’m using the car wrong

 

[apl360]

The traction control/torque vectoring is one of the not-so-well-documented differences between the Integra Type S and Civic Type R. But for my Integra, I'm ~19k miles and the brakes will need done soon but they're still acceptable. I drive the car hard, but perhaps not as hard as some folks on the street. My car has been through a track day and probably ~150 autocross runs and the brakes are still holding up.

The key point to mention though is I fully turn off traction control (via pedal dance) for any sort of "intentional" driving I do, including backroads driving on public roads (I left it on during one particularly wet autocross day).

As I understand it, most of you fl5 guys elect to not do the pedal dance, as apparently +R mode retains some sort of torque vectoring advantage? I don't know what the exact logic is as I don't own an fl5. But my guess is it has something to do with why your brakes are going in half the time mine did, despite some of you reporting zero autocross or track usage.

On the de5. Are U saying when U push that tc button. It doesn’t turn it off all the way? Does it just reduce slightly then?

 

[ThunderPigeon]

I go into the turns hard and I get plenty of rotation. I have long on/off ramps and plenty of empty twisty back roads. I will usually long press traction control in +R. I never do the pedal dance. It is my understanding that the rear brakes are always working unless you do the pedal dance. Which would explain the brake wear. But I like the rotation I get from it and the added cost of the pads is not really an issue for me.

 

[ThunderPigeon]

On the de5. Are U saying when U push that tc button. It doesn’t turn it off all the way? Does it just reduce slightly then?

I'm not sure about the ITS, but the FL5 has different degrees of reduced traction control. From my understanding tere is the single press reduced traction control, there is the long press which only works in +R and turns off almost everything except the rear braking assists and there is the pedal dance which disables all of it.

 

[optronix]

On the de5. Are U saying when U push that tc button. It doesn’t turn it off all the way? Does it just reduce slightly then?

No sir it does not. It lets the front wheels spin but there are still plenty of shenanigans going on with stability control.

I haven't honestly done the research, but I think the FL5's +R mode has additional control/features when it comes to stability control and torque vectoring, and the rear brakes are used to manifest these features. Reviewers and engineers rave about it, but from my perspective I don't know what I don't know. I believe the Type S has similar features, but I haven't found them to my liking so I turn it all the way off via the pedal dance, and I love the way the car drives after that. As a byproduct, it also is easier on brakes.

It's not that big a deal honestly, the brakes still go faster than they should even in my case at 20k miles. It's just an idiosyncrasy of the platform. This is all just an explanation, not a solution. If you like the brake vectoring, continue to use it- now you just know why your brakes are wearing faster than you expect.

 

[apl360]

No sir it does not. It lets the front wheels spin but there are still plenty of shenanigans going on with stability control.

I haven't honestly done the research, but I think the FL5's +R mode has additional control/features when it comes to stability control and torque vectoring, and the rear brakes are used to manifest these features. Reviewers and engineers rave about it, but from my perspective I don't know what I don't know. I believe the Type S has similar features, but I haven't found them to my liking so I turn it all the way off via the pedal dance, and I love the way the car drives after that. As a byproduct, it also is easier on brakes.

It's not that big a deal honestly, the brakes still go faster than they should even in my case at 20k miles. It's just an idiosyncrasy of the platform. This is all just an explanation, not a solution. If you like the brake vectoring, continue to use it- now you just know why your brakes are wearing faster than you expect.

Thnx for explaining

Sponsored