🚀 tezzasaurusrex - Time Attack FL5 Build Journal

[tezzasaurusrex]

How much camber front and rear? Which one was the issue?

Read my first post for alignment specs.

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[tezzasaurusrex]

PWR elite radiator in.
No need to pull the front bar off to fit.
Airbox out, and loosen and rotate the cast aluminium airbox bracket under the ECU out of the way will make life much easier.
Then remove the big under panel trim attached to the bottom of the front bumper and you'll have access to the 2x M6 lower condenser bolts.
I also recommend snipping about 5mm off the end of the upper radiator hose which I didn't do, but plan on doing when I have some time cause I don't like how it's kinda kinked due to the extra thickness of the PWR over OEM.
One very important thing to note is that the oem top bolts (x2) holding the condenser to the radiator are too long and will bottom out onto the radiator before clamping the condenser brackets, so you need to cut these down, or run shorter bolts/more washers. Location circled in red in the last pic.
Will report back with data logs on track to see if the extra weight is worth it ?

 

[Erko]

Very keen to hear how you go Tez !

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Made my own pop-up hood delete kit.
Basically comprising of 2.2ohm 5w resistors and the 2 pin SRS plug.
False activation of the pop-up hood on aggressive kerb mounting was a problem on Nissan's, not yet been reported on the Honda's but it's nice to save some weight and it's one less thing to replace (the hood hinges and the actuators) if something was to go a little pear shaped on track.

 

[chadwicke619]

@tezzasaurusrex Great build so far. I'm really interested in getting your take RE: coilovers. Looking through your whole post, it looks like you get a 25mm drop with the Tein, and it sounds like you're running 275/35/18, square. I'm a hair away from pulling the trigger on the Ohlins R&T, which, to my understanding, is almost certainly going to be less than a 25mm drop, and I'm running 275/35/18 +45 - just trying to figure out if I should expect to have rubbing issues. I know you said that the right amount of camber was important, but I guess I am just wondering how tight we are talking.

Also, did you do the install yourself? Did you take off the axel nut? I know I've seen a video from another user here that made it look pretty doable without having to take the axel nut off or anything - I think they were installing RSR's. I am also an unsure about how the rotor and what not is attached. Like, do I need to support the wheel assembly (or whatever the rotor/brake piece is called) with a jack to take off the strut? Or do I only need one to push it back up to slot the strut into the knuckle? I see a jack used to push the whole thing back up, but should I have a jack under there as I attempt to remove stuff? Or is everything just stiff enough that it kinda hangs and you just yank it down to pull out the strut?

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

@tezzasaurusrex Great build so far. I'm really interested in getting your take RE: coilovers. Looking through your whole post, it looks like you get a 25mm drop with the Tein, and it sounds like you're running 275/35/18, square. I'm a hair away from pulling the trigger on the Ohlins R&T, which, to my understanding, is almost certainly going to be less than a 25mm drop, and I'm running 275/35/18 +45 - just trying to figure out if I should expect to have rubbing issues. I know you said that the right amount of camber was important, but I guess I am just wondering how tight we are talking.

Also, did you do the install yourself? Did you take off the axel nut? I know I've seen a video from another user here that made it look pretty doable without having to take the axel nut off or anything - I think they were installing RSR's. I am also an unsure about how the rotor and what not is attached. Like, do I need to support the wheel assembly (or whatever the rotor/brake piece is called) with a jack to take off the strut? Or do I only need one to push it back up to slot the strut into the knuckle? I see a jack used to push the whole thing back up, but should I have a jack under there as I attempt to remove stuff? Or is everything just stiff enough that it kinda hangs and you just yank it down to pull out the strut?

275/35R18 with ET45 will fit fine without additional camber.
Did not take axle nut off, just need to be careful to not manoeuvre the hub assembly too far out as to not pull the driveshaft out of the gearbox which seems many are doing. It will hang off the resistance of the LCA bushings.

 

[optronix]

Is there a part number you could share with the new sp

A note on the Spoon spring spacers, I've now installed several sets of new release Spoon springs (now have thicker and higher quality black spring insulator on them) and have discovered they no longer sit low in the rear.

So for anyone who have the new release springs, you do not need the spacer I developed to raise the rear end.

If your springs have blue insulators on the front, then you have the original batch which from my observations all sit low in the rear.

If you have any questions feel free to respond here or send me a PM.

Thanks all

This is good to hear. I've gone from being set on coilovers to thinking springs are best suited for my use case, which is about 90/10 autocross vs track. I like the Spoon springs but didn't want to deal with the reverse rake nor hunt down a shim.

Is there a part number you could share to make sure those interested in Spoon springs are getting the new batch vs the old (without waiting for them to show up and open the box...)?

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Is there a part number you could share with the new sp


This is good to hear. I've gone from being set on coilovers to thinking springs are best suited for my use case, which is about 90/10 autocross vs track. I like the Spoon springs but didn't want to deal with the reverse rake nor hunt down a shim.

Is there a part number you could share to make sure those interested in Spoon springs are getting the new batch vs the old (without waiting for them to show up and open the box...)?

They never changed the part number from what I've seen. The change happened towards the end of 2023, I would say the springs in stock at retailers now would be the updated ones, but you can always ask to check the insulators to be sure

 

[blackert]

God spec SAGA
18X10 ET40

do you have any parallel/down the side photos? trying to get an idea of poke with 18x10 +40 as i’m looking to buying a set of 18x10 +50 regamasters for my FL5.

 

[hoping2Get1]

A note on the Spoon spring spacers, I've now installed several sets of new release Spoon springs (now have thicker and higher quality black spring insulator on them) and have discovered they no longer sit low in the rear.

So for anyone who have the new release springs, you do not need the spacer I developed to raise the rear end.

If your springs have blue insulators on the front, then you have the original batch which from my observations all sit low in the rear.

If you have any questions feel free to respond here or send me a PM.

Thanks all

Did the Spoons with rear rake not also have black insulators? Saw the pic here so was wondering.

Looking at the updated pic above, the insulators do seem thicker as you mentioned, and perhaps a more matte color.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Apologies for the lack of updates. Life has been full on since starting up my own alignment shop. The car continues to evolve and the lap times keep coming down.

Latest updates:
HJS catted downpipe (sounds epic)
HKS IC with Piping Kit
Hondata Flashpro + Jester Tuned 98 Octane (equivalent to US 93)

Aero in development - Battle Aero front splitter mounts do not work with the JDM/AUDM steel crash bar, so I got the USDM crash bar instead.
Turns out the aluminium USDM crash bar is heavier than the steel JDM by 2kg! The USDM bar is far more substantial, and extremely beefy, which serves as the ideal mounting point for the splitter. However it is not without its challenges, the USDM crash bar is a completely different profile. Which means the pop up hood actuating system (plastic thing sitting in front of the crash bar) also doesn't work, which then changes the front cooling channels completely as not running it opens up otherwise filled gaps between the bumper and the intercooler/condenser/radiator.
Currently working to close all those gaps to improve the efficiency of the cooling system, air just wants to travel the path of least resistance, so closing up all the gaps is absolute key maximise the volume of air going through the exchangers, and not around them through the gaps!
There are two very large gaps between the OEM glass fibre reinforced plastic radiator support panel and the radiator. So I've now sealed those off as best as possible with 30x30mm thick closed cell foam.

More updates to come.

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Did the Spoons with rear rake not also have black insulators? Saw the pic here so was wondering.

Looking at the updated pic above, the insulators do seem thicker as you mentioned, and perhaps a more matte color.

They did. The updated ones have thicker insulators, which are a matte black like you mentioned

 

[tezzasaurusrex]

Spoon Kevlar seat in, saved 7kg over the stock seat.
Bride Type FO rails are quite heavy so I might pull them back out and mill out some unnecessary material.
If you're taller than 5'7" I recommend the super low version of the Type FO.
6 point harness system to come ?

 

[TW00Si]

How come you went with the HKS IC instead of the PWR?

 

[Tougefl5]

How come you went with the HKS IC instead of the PWR?

PWR don't make charge pipes. They told me it's design to work with stock parts. Sort of dumb when selling a big money part not to have supporting pieces.

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