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You adjusted the pedal, yeah?

S58 w. a manual will be a pretty cool thing to have in 10 years, imo.

Yeah, if you don't like the ITS or the CTR, all power to you. But, I don't think the ITS looks any more like a base Integra than the CTR looks like a base Civic. Sure, the CTR's wing helps differentiate it from the standard variants, but I think the styling changes made to the front / rear...

I would not be shocked if the issue is that the clutch adjustment is set poorly from the factory. This causes grinds, which damage the synchros, and then you have a permanent problem, even if you fix your pedal adjustment. If my car was pretty much new and exhibiting this behavior, I'd try...

Sounds like a synchro issue, yeah?

Looks good! Someone picked one of these up... @Jester04, was that you? Curious... they advise against using a camshaft w. a >5mm HPFP lobe increase over stock. That means no Hondata cams, right? But 4Piston cams would be compatible?

They seriously cheaper out on USDM... mirrors, parking sensors, back seats, shift boot, etc.

They would, but I'm not looking to invest atm ?

Also suffering from this. I haven't been able to track it down yet. It's not as bad now that it's warm out, but it still shows up intermittently.

Those looked fantastic on your ABP.

When it's all set and done, can you give us a 1 post list of the engine build?

Well... we know you have the block... so... head? Ported + valvetrain + cams + gasket?

fits DE5? ?

This is exactly it. They have competing priorities -- performance, emissions, packaging, etc. When they design the platform, they have to make sure it fits in a variety of different engine bays and meets a variety of different emissions requirements, and it needs to be produced at the minimum...

100% agree. It was largely a copy / paste (with some minor modifications) designed to prioritize packaging purposes (see 10th gen 2.0 Accord / 2.0 TLX / 2.0 RDX, etc.). We have the same problem with the cooling loop.

Agreed. IAT issues on this car are a result of intake design. Acuity is apparently releasing an intake that solves that issue (routes directly to passenger wheel well).

They make it clear that premium is recommended. 87 is listed as a minimum. As others have pointed out, this indicates that you can get away with 87 if you have to, but you should use 91 given the option. Honda would not recommend premium if 87 was equally serviceable. Looking at tuning threads...

I'm not trying to be rude, but realistically: 1. Risking damage to a $50k investment due to consistently repeated knock events over an extra $500 / year doesn't seem to make sense. 2. If an extra $500 in fuel / year is that much of a deterrent, how does one rationalize spending $50k on a car...

Sorry if I missed it... what are you using for hardware for the PI?

Does it use the factory MAF or a custom one? Is it possible the MAF scaling has issues? Also, is it possible the MAF was dirty?