Grinding in 2nd?

Spart

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Appreciate this, will definitely try to replace the fluid, i got the car with 16k and did my trans fluid in my previous car (wrx) at 15k, so will definitely be giving this a try along with the cmc damper.

Crossing fingers, but if it does persist, i'll try and see if Honda will warranty the trans
Sirimoto sells a delete for the damper here: https://www.sirimoto.com/p/mm/honda...ch-master-cylinder-cmc-damper-delete-kit.html

I will say that their directions indicated the loop should point toward the driver and I had to point it away from the driver in order to get adequate clearance to the wiring harness that runs behind the CMC damper bracket.

But definitely do the fluid first, to see if that helps at all. It's the easiest thing to try and the easiest thing to revert.
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AspecR

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Appreciate this, will definitely try to replace the fluid, i got the car with 16k and did my trans fluid in my previous car (wrx) at 15k, so will definitely be giving this a try along with the cmc damper.

Crossing fingers, but if it does persist, i'll try and see if Honda will warranty the trans
Also make sure to adjust your clutch pedal, it takes a minute to do and definitely helps

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/clutch-pedal-adjustment-gear-grind-fix.42528/
 

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Yes, check the free play. Mine was dead on from the factory but not everyone's is.
Mine was dead on from the factory but I have an upgraded clutch so the pedal needed a slight readjustment to reduce high rpm tension
 

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I saw that post too. I may give that a shot and see what happens. Oddly, when I feel the roughness, it’s when the revs are low. I’ll have to do some experimenting with different engine speeds when making that downshift to see exactly when it happens.
Any link to that post by chance?
 


Spart

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If I'm not mistaken, the factory clutch setup can be adjusted a bit to lower the pedal and thus eliminate some of the over-engagement.

11th Gen Honda Civic Grinding in 2nd? 1758739132635-r


I've considered doing this myself. Adjusting the fork on the rod going into the master all the way in, then adjusting the stop and the sensor to match. Then obviously test to make sure the clutch isn't grabbing with the pedal fully depressed, but I don't think mine would since it grabs in the top half of travel.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, the factory clutch setup can be adjusted a bit to lower the pedal and thus eliminate some of the over-engagement.

1758739132635-rw.webp


I've considered doing this myself. Adjusting the fork on the rod going into the master all the way in, then adjusting the stop and the sensor to match. Then obviously test to make sure the clutch isn't grabbing with the pedal fully depressed, but I don't think mine would since it grabs in the top half of travel.
That should work fine as far as I know, just make sure to leave a little free play so there’s no resting pressure on the master cylinder. I’m sure you’ll be able to feel if it doesn’t disengage enough.
 

Spart

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I’m sure you’ll be able to feel if it doesn’t disengage enough.
The first thing I would do (and this applies to pretty much any clutch work including replacing slave cylinders etc.) is put the shifter in neutral, start the car up, then hold the clutch in and wait while it's running briefly. Then try to select 1st gear. If you feel the synchro working, you know the clutch is dragging at least a little bit because the synchro is having to slow the input shaft down when it should already be stationary.
 


jtlctr

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Sirimoto sells a delete for the damper here: https://www.sirimoto.com/p/mm/honda...ch-master-cylinder-cmc-damper-delete-kit.html

I will say that their directions indicated the loop should point toward the driver and I had to point it away from the driver in order to get adequate clearance to the wiring harness that runs behind the CMC damper bracket.
What is this damper even for? I know the reason behind the slave cylinder delay valve, but I had never heard of these inline dampers until recently.
 

Spart

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What is this damper even for? I know the reason behind the slave cylinder delay valve, but I had never heard of these inline dampers until recently.
Seems like a NVH thing.

Might be the thickness of my shoe soles, but I don't notice any meaningful difference in NVH after deleting it.

I would note that my GT350 did not have a damper or a delay valve on the clutch hydraulic system, and that clutch was connected to a flat plane crank engine that vibrated enough to back out the oil pressure sensor on track as well as break loose both dampers on the exhaust, which were there to stop the vibrations of the engine from fracturing the exhaust. And an OEM twin disc to boot, which are known to be a bit noisy.

IOW, the Honda engineers were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. 😆
 

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Has anyone tried Redline transmission fluid in this car ? If so which did you use and how was it.
 

jtlctr

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Has anyone tried Redline transmission fluid in this car ? If so which did you use and how was it.
There are a couple of transmission fluid threads going, and I believe I’ve seen a few people mention using it.
 

Spart

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Has anyone tried Redline transmission fluid in this car ? If so which did you use and how was it.
I kind of want to try both Redline MTL and ACDelco Synchromesh 10-4014.

They're a bit thicker than Honda MTF, but not by a ton.

Honda MTF (Approximately 70W but not listed as such)
7.265 cSt @ 100°C
30.70 cSt @ 40°C

Redline MTL (75W-80 GL-4)
10.4 cSt @ 100°C
50.8 cSt @ 40°C

ACDelco Synchromesh 10-4014 (no weight specified, but close to 75W-80)
10.05 cSt @ 100°C
50 cSt @ 40°C

I posted a whole laundry list of options with viscosities here: https://www.civicxi.com/forum/threads/fl5-transmission-fluid-recommendation.53729/page-3#post-976699
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