Cdsbblue
Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2023
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 34
- Reaction score
- 39
- Location
- Gainesville ga
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 FL5
- Thread starter
- #1
I bought some Apex EC-7 18x9.5 wheels (et 58) and Falken 660's for the track. When I put the wheels on, I noted that the thread engagement looked lite. Turns out, I could only get about 8.25-8.5 turns from first engagement. Given that the studs have a 1.5mm thread, I think you need closer to 9.5 turns to get to the 14mm diameter of the stud.
I purchased MSI extended studs from United Speed Racing in Cumming Georgia. Based on some posts for the FK8s, I assumed I'd have to at least remove the upper lower ball joint for the front wheels. Turns out, it could not have been easier. After removing the caliper and disc, I used a Honda ball joint separator (i got it from Honda Factory parts on the web) to push out the original studs (to avoid using a hammer), and dremeled a small section of the heat shield. The studs just popped right in. Tightened them with an impact gun with 4 washers and a lug nut.
A couple of points. First, I am not certain that cutting the heat shield was necessary for the front wheels. I foolishly trimmed it before even testing it out, and trimmed a bigger piece than could possibly be necessary because I wanted the cuts to be closer to the heat shield screws. Second, I think that one of the reasons that this was easier was that the MSI extended studs, as racing studs, have a taper at the end (see below). That gives the benefit of some wiggle. I am not sure that the ARP studs with full threads would go in as easily.
Below are pics of the stud comparisons, and a couple of the sloppy front and rear heat shield trim. The picture with the stud in the hub was intended to show how much room you have, but doesn't really show much. The stud really just drops right in - no banging or crazy manipulating.
I purchased MSI extended studs from United Speed Racing in Cumming Georgia. Based on some posts for the FK8s, I assumed I'd have to at least remove the upper lower ball joint for the front wheels. Turns out, it could not have been easier. After removing the caliper and disc, I used a Honda ball joint separator (i got it from Honda Factory parts on the web) to push out the original studs (to avoid using a hammer), and dremeled a small section of the heat shield. The studs just popped right in. Tightened them with an impact gun with 4 washers and a lug nut.
A couple of points. First, I am not certain that cutting the heat shield was necessary for the front wheels. I foolishly trimmed it before even testing it out, and trimmed a bigger piece than could possibly be necessary because I wanted the cuts to be closer to the heat shield screws. Second, I think that one of the reasons that this was easier was that the MSI extended studs, as racing studs, have a taper at the end (see below). That gives the benefit of some wiggle. I am not sure that the ARP studs with full threads would go in as easily.
Below are pics of the stud comparisons, and a couple of the sloppy front and rear heat shield trim. The picture with the stud in the hub was intended to show how much room you have, but doesn't really show much. The stud really just drops right in - no banging or crazy manipulating.
. Reminding me why I really wanted to keep this thing stock haha.
