Bleed Clutch Slave Master Cylinder

[Cbau]

I planned on changing my brake fluid. This is my 1st manual car and I just heard about bleeding the clutch slave master cylinder. How do I go about doing this on our car? There is no separate reservoir for the clutch as it shares it with the brake fluid reservoir, correct? Thanks for any help!

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[GV27]

I used a motive pressure bleeder with a Honda master cylinder adapter to do both the brakes and the clutch. Worked great.
You can either fill it with brake fluid and pressurize it to force fluid into the reservoir, or do it ”dry” - where you use the power bleeder just to pressurize the system and only fill the reservoir.

I did it dry - that way there’s less chance of making a mess and you don’t waste any fluid, which can be pretty expensive if it’s SRF for example. Also you don’t have to clean up the bleeder afterwards, because it’s never touching the fluid.
The downside to the dry method is you have to keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn’t drop below min.

I modified my bleeder by drilling a hole and attaching a tire schrader valve - to allow for easy pressurization / depressurization with a battery powered tire pump. 13 psi works great - don’t try more as you can have quite a mess on your hands if the seal lets go. You can use the built in hand pump, but it’s a bit tedious, especially for the dry method because you have to occasionally release the pressure, refill with fluid and re-pressurize.

This videos show the process nicely. Note he used the wet method for the brakes and the dry method for the clutch:

 

[cryptolime]

you can crack the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and have someone else pump the clutch pedal. Make sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir topped off.

 

[Cbau]

I used a motive pressure bleeder with a Honda master cylinder adapter to do both the brakes and the clutch. Worked great.
You can either fill it with brake fluid and pressurize it to force fluid into the reservoir, or do it ”dry” - where you use the power bleeder just to pressurize the system and only fill the reservoir.

I did it dry - that way there’s less chance of making a mess and you don’t waste any fluid, which can be pretty expensive if it’s SRF for example. Also you don’t have to clean up the bleeder afterwards, because it’s never touching the fluid.
The downside to the dry method is you have to keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn’t drop below min.

I modified my bleeder by drilling a hole and attaching a tire schrader valve - to allow for easy pressurization / depressurization with a battery powered tire pump. 13 psi works great - don’t try more as you can have quite a mess on your hands if the seal lets go. You can use the built in hand pump, but it’s a bit tedious, especially for the dry method because you have to occasionally release the pressure, refill with fluid and re-pressurize.

This videos show the process nicely. Note he used the wet method for the brakes and the dry method for the clutch:

I’m using the motive products power bleeder too. Thanks for the videos! I’m guessing it’s pretty much the same process for the clutch slave cylinder on an 11th gen si?

 

[GV27]

I’m using the motive products power bleeder too. Thanks for the videos! I’m guessing it’s pretty much the same process for the clutch slave cylinder on an 11th gen si?

Should be the same.

 

[AZCWTypeR]

I've used a Mityvac bleeder (mine looks like MV8000) since the '80's on many cars and motorcycles. Mityvac can go slow, which is important on small reservoirs.

 

[AZCWTypeR]

Also, the bleed nipple wrenches I use are only about 3 inches long. I never over torqued nipples using these.

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