Australia. What engine oil are you using in your type R ?

joshinthecity

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5w-30 seems to be the agreed weight for our hot climate.
But not many come in a full synth 6l pack..
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In the USA, 5W-30 is still common in 5 quart jug (USA, not Imperial qts) to to the latest API oil spec. Higher viscosity oils in latest API spec are rarer.

BTW, my car dipstick shows full at 5.5 quarts, so an extra quart bottle (in addition to 5 qt jugs) covers 2 changes. Honda says 5.7 qts per oil and filter change.

I use Pennzoil 5W-30 Platinum in the CTR, but Motul 7100 in my motorcycles (lower use rate, but riden harder). I assume Shell and Castrol are still common down under.
 

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In the USA, 5W-30 is still common in 5 quart jug (USA, not Imperial qts) to to the latest API oil spec. Higher viscosity oils in latest API spec are rarer.

BTW, my car dipstick shows full at 5.5 quarts, so an extra quart bottle (in addition to 5 qt jugs) covers 2 changes. Honda says 5.7 qts per oil and filter change.

I use Pennzoil 5W-30 Platinum in the CTR, but Motul 7100 in my motorcycles (lower use rate, but riden harder). I assume Shell and Castrol are still common down under.
PMFJI - I drive a 2025 Civic Type R, all stock, daily-driver / commuter approx. 30 miles each weekday ... 5000 miles and 10 months the dipstick looks like attached, how do you read this, does the dark section on bottom count or the filled holes mark "full" ... ? Honda App shows oil life at 30%

would you do first oil change at the dealer or yourself ? I've some experience doing oil changes on my 1994 Mercedes W140 S600 but never on a Honda,

thanks !!

11th Gen Honda Civic Australia. What engine oil are you using in your type R ? 2025 FL5  5000 miles 10 months
 

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Dipstick is the worst design I've ever seen. Clean off, reinsert and withdraw to read. I can just barely make out the level after that using magnifying glasses.

American Honda offers free oil changes for a while (was 2 years on 2024's). I change my own, but have decades of experience and tools. The tray under the FL5 engine is a hassle and pretty much requires ramps for safe and complete access.
 

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Dipstick is the worst design I've ever seen. Clean off, reinsert and withdraw to read. I can just barely make out the level after that using magnifying glasses.

American Honda offers free oil changes for a while (was 2 years on 2024's). I change my own, but have decades of experience and tools. The tray under the FL5 engine is a hassle and pretty much requires ramps for safe and complete access.
thanks for your reply, really appreciate it, and agreed on dipstick design being much too hard to read, this picture was after 3-4 clean and reinserts, I think I'll have the Honda dealer do first oil change, although I do have ramps, I put the Mercedes S600 on ramps for oil change as well,

thanks !!
 


zymmer4

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I am Stateside, but I use Castrol 5W-30 year round..Change it every 5000 miles. Use Honda oil filter.
 

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I am Stateside, but I use Castrol 5W-30 year round..Change it every 5000 miles. Use Honda oil filter.
with the front of the car on a ramp would you say it's relatively doable, what tools are needed ?

thanks !!
 
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joshinthecity

joshinthecity

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Yeah. Castrol edge 5w-30 is what I have settled on too.
Picking my car up tomorrow morning.
First change will be at 1000klm (just to get any metal out)
Then 5000klm.

Then every 10. This feels about right to me. Any track days will of course modify the above.
 

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with the front of the car on a ramp would you say it's relatively doable, what tools are needed ?

thanks !!
Firstly, I don't know what ramps you use to get the FL5 up without ripping off the front splitter..If one did get the car up there, I would suggest that the oil level indicated would be false due to the massive up slope of the front end..IF one would raise the rear of the car level with the front, all would be golden.
 

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Firstly, I don't know what ramps you use to get the FL5 up without ripping off the front splitter..If one did get the car up there, I would suggest that the oil level indicated would be false due to the massive up slope of the front end..IF one would raise the rear of the car level with the front, all would be golden.
I think most of us that use ramps to service our car, use low profile plastic ramps. I have for 5+ years now.
Although the low profile ramps I own have worked for all of my past vehicles (3 so far) just fine, I found that the stock FL5 was a bit too low for the ramps. I cut two helper pads from 3/4” this lumber and place them in front of the ramp. Car onto the pads, then onto the ramps.

I also believe that nobody really checks their final fill level while on the ramps. I, personally, add 5 liters to the engine after securing up the underside, start engine, reverse down the ramps very slowly as not to scrape, turn off engine and check final fill level on flat ground.
 


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I think most of us that use ramps to service our car, use low profile plastic ramps. I have for 5+ years now.
Although the low profile ramps I own have worked for all of my past vehicles (3 so far) just fine, I found that the stock FL5 was a bit too low for the ramps. I cut two helper pads from 3/4” this lumber and place them in front of the ramp. Car onto the pads, then onto the ramps.

I also believe that nobody really checks their final fill level while on the ramps. I, personally, add 5 liters to the engine after securing up the underside, start engine, reverse down the ramps very slowly as not to scrape, turn off engine and check final fill level on flat ground.
oh yes, good point, I had not think of that, only having put a Mercedes S-class on these ramps, I'll probably have Honda dealer perform 1st service and take my time to look into DIY next oil change, thanks !!
 

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Firstly, I don't know what ramps you use to get the FL5 up without ripping off the front splitter..If one did get the car up there, I would suggest that the oil level indicated would be false due to the massive up slope of the front end..IF one would raise the rear of the car level with the front, all would be golden.
thanks for this, I hadn't tried to put the FL5 on my ramps, having only used the ramps for an S-class Mercedes (MY 1994 W140 S600 V12)
 

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oh yes, good point, I had not think of that, only having put a Mercedes S-class on these ramps, I'll probably have Honda dealer perform 1st service and take my time to look into DIY next oil change, thanks !!
You’re welcome. For me, with the ramps that I own, when I approach the ramps the ‘hangydown mudflap thing’ that is in front of each front tire, is what touches the ramp first, and just barely touching at that.
I suppose I could’ve climbed the ramps just fine, w/o the wooden helper pads, but it was backing down the ramps that had me worried. I didn’t want to bend those hangydown mudflap things backwards, as they were certain to catch on the textured surface of the ramp.
 

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You’re welcome. For me, with the ramps that I own, when I approach the ramps the ‘hangydown mudflap thing’ that is in front of each front tire, is what touches the ramp first, and just barely touching at that.
I suppose I could’ve climbed the ramps just fine, w/o the wooden helper pads, but it was backing down the ramps that had me worried. I didn’t want to bend those hangydown mudflap things backwards, as they were certain to catch on the textured surface of the ramp.
ohh, yes, going up the ramp is one thing but coming down another challenge on its own, excellent point ;) and thanks for pointing out; I'm currently at 30% oil life according to the car/app and 5,442 miles, with the 30% mostly based on oil change once a year, car is coming up to 1yr around Oct/Nov
 

zymmer4

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I think most of us that use ramps to service our car, use low profile plastic ramps. I have for 5+ years now.
Although the low profile ramps I own have worked for all of my past vehicles (3 so far) just fine, I found that the stock FL5 was a bit too low for the ramps. I cut two helper pads from 3/4” this lumber and place them in front of the ramp. Car onto the pads, then onto the ramps.

I also believe that nobody really checks their final fill level while on the ramps. I, personally, add 5 liters to the engine after securing up the underside, start engine, reverse down the ramps very slowly as not to scrape, turn off engine and check final fill level on flat ground.
Good point on the timbers..I have seen 2 by 8 buildups..I will do a set for mine and then use the rear jackpoints for the levelling procedure.
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