Yeah I plan to soak the hardware in PB blaster overnight and the day of uninstalling. Which stud removal tool did you use?If you don’t have a stud removal tool, you can attempt the double nut method. Not sure if you have time on your hands but I soaked the studs with penetrating lubricant overnight and use a dedicated removal tool and they came off easily in the morning. I’m sure you can also use heat to help with removal if you can’t wait.
As for the gasket, it’s recommended to replace it.. but I just reused it since it’s metal and didn’t seem like it needed replacing. Only time I replaced the gasket was when I actually installed my new turbo.
I just picked up one from AutoZone and it worked fine for me.Yeah I plan to soak the hardware in PB blaster overnight and the day of uninstalling. Which stud removal tool did you use?
Ahh that doesn’t help my already building anxiety on the job lol. How would you go about extracting the stud as a DIY?Watch out for the top one thats threaded directly into the turbine housing. Thats always the one which has the most problems. And be prepared (anticipate) to extract a snapped stud. I have a machine shop that I work with on these turbos for those snapped studs even when soaking in kroil and heat wont get it out without snapping
Depends on how/where it snaps. You could try the stud extractor posted above. But if it snaps flush with the housing, you'll need to be proficient with a drill (or drill press) (correct carbide bits), a center punch, and a tap to re-thread it to M10x1.25. When it happens at my shop, its easier, and faster (and cheaper to customer) to just go to the machine shop I partner with, turbo in hand and have them drill it out and tap for me since they have a custom jig/fixture they built for this application.Ahh that doesn’t help my already building anxiety on the job lol. How would you go about extracting the stud as a DIY?
I appreciate the info! I’ll get all those tools together just incase (auto punch, drill, cutting fluid, etc). You would go straight to carbide bits or start with regular drill bits?Depends on how/where it snaps. You could try the stud extractor posted above. But if it snaps flush with the housing, you'll need to be proficient with a drill (or drill press) (correct carbide bits), a center punch, and a tap to re-thread it to M10x1.25. When it happens at my shop, its easier, and faster (and cheaper to customer) to just go to the machine shop I partner with, turbo in hand and have them drill it out and tap for me since they have a custom jig/fixture they built for this application.
Carbide. Carbon steel or titanium ones wont make a dent.I appreciate the info! I’ll get all those tools together just incase (auto punch, drill, cutting fluid, etc). You would go straight to carbide bits or start with regular drill bits?
18234-RPY-G02Anybody have the honda part # for the gasket from turbo to DP? Thanks
Where’d you get the loctite freeze and release? Never heard of itI’m going to install a TSP downpipe soon. I plan to soak it in penetrating oil overnight and I got some loctite freeze and release (penetrating oil with a freezing agent) to use just before removing it. Heard it works wonders on rusty exhaust studs. I‘ll use the double nut method.