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I did these for my Apex wheels. The shank fits perfect in the lug holes on the wheels. I run a 5mm spacer up front and these make that feel safe on thread engagement. Overall length from the seat isnt too much of a concern vs number of turns of thread engagement...

Just do 17X8+45 wheels and a 255 tire. Embrace the shift to 3rd. (I assume the big site you're talking about is GCAC). I use to tap the limiter in 3rd there on some courses with my old 19 SI LOL

This was the final chance for the move to happen for the 2026 season. The way its currently worded is its still on the table for 2027.

Yeah, gearing blows on the 20+ and the 22+ is heavier and longer than the 10th gen. I have 255/35/18’s on my car and 2nd ends about 54mph. Debating trying some 255/40/18’s next go since they’re a bit taller and hit 57 in 2nd. That is about what a 10th gen car does with 255/40/17

In GS no, in STH yes.

Do you have the alignment pics pulled on the top strut? 1.1* feels low if the ball joint adds 1*. You should be .5-.7 with the pins pulled so ~1.5* with the ball joint I would think.

Perfect! TY so rear is .75 for how I would view it. Saved me some time here :thumbsup:

For the MR, did you calculate this yourself or find a source for it? Never seen MR as being over 1, it should be under 1 AFAIK. Then wheel rate is Spring X MR^2. The math isn't mathing for me here. Even if the MR should be flipped, .971 F and .667 R, those don't add up to the wheel rates listed...

It would not be legal. You can pull the front pins and that will gain a couple tenths of a degree and that is it. You will need to go to STH to get proper camber

Does the front pipe make any change in sound over OEM? Is there any dynos with just this front pipe and nothing else done?