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great time to sell, horrible time to buy for both houses and automobiles

240hp/262tq to my eyes - however I despise that side by side chart. I am unhappy without being able to verify the 5252 crossover. Not bothered enough to try to correct the scaling and fix it myself...

I absolutely agree on that bold point above. Having owned several cars both quick and slow, I've never agreed with "I'd rather a slow car fast than a fast car slow". In most cars I sit below 2000rpm when driving around town, as I like good mpg. I can always downshift as needed for more speed...

When I bought my 2017 I had to needle 3 local dealers against each other just to get down to $22k, took 3 days of emails, phone calls, and about 10 hours of driving around from dealer to dealer. Still can't believe they deleted heated seats and dual zone climate control in the USDM Si for 2022.

relevant: https://www.dirtlegal.com/blog/6-steps-to-import-a-vehicle-from-canada-to-the-us-by-yourself

It's not track ready for sure, and that was never it's intended purpose. However, you could consider adding an oil cooler and/or a plate style adapter that goes in between the oil filter which would let you add sensors for oil pressure and oil temp...

Glad it worked out. Try not to post when angry. Hell, try not to speak when angry. Matter of fact, try to avoid doing most things when angry. Regret, remorse, apologizing, etc, all have some value, but patience can save face, drama, and time.

I nearly exclusively use map 3, haven't had any problems downshifting - and I go all the way to 1st quite regularly. over 30k miles, still on the stock fluid and clutch.

Given that most of the people on the forum do not have an R - the OP confusion seems pretty justified. I doubt such confusion would ever take place on the ktuner side of the forum.

Upgrade the intercooler to lower IAT. You could also consider meth injection. Or avoid repeat high boost at high rpm situations.

Cali laws are fucked up and have spot checks on the side of the road, or so I am told. I would say the +9 Hondata map and the 19/23 ktuner map are pretty close. I would put about 5000 miles on it first just to be sure everything is behaving normally.

Also having both the ktuner v1.2 and Hondata race, i would only recommend the ktuner.

The carb version is best for people in CA. For anyone else, other than the slight cost savings..... doesn't make sense to have a limited version of the product.

Bought a ton of your parts for my 2002 WRX over a decade ago. That car now belongs to my brother and those parts are still working as intended. Nice to see you will be providing parts to the Honda crowd.

That mpg is possible stock. Gotta drive easy, gentle throttle, shift early, use boost sparingly. I average 36-42mpg per tank of fuel, depends how much fun I have vs my normal 42 mile each way commute 5 days per week. In any case you should buy a hondata or ktuner and flash a map...

18k. No slip yet

Over 18k miles and my clutch is fine. The TSP stg 1 map is how the car should have come from the factory.

The turbo spools based on many factors, a major factor is load. It is easier to build boost driving uphill than downhill. It is also easier to build boost in higher gear ratios. If you want to rip WOT from 2k to redline, do that in gears 1-4. Running 4th to redline will put you above just...

Av Avoid boost or anything but mild accelleration in 5th and 6th gears. Downshifting will give you a better result all around.

Buy the tune from TSP