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Glad that shifter, knob and collar combo is treating you well! We have some more love for the 10th's in the works. We love hearing stuff like this, it really makes the job feel like it has some purpose, if not just bringing smiles to people's faces. :) Thanks for the love! ~Russ

If one of you guys can take a top-down picture of the hose and the intake, where it hits, then use a ruler or tape measure to show how far from the engine-side end of the upper hose the contact occurs, we can give you a better idea of what to expect in terms of fitment. Anyone want to post that...

Here's a top-down shot of our solid model. So this would be as viewed from above in the engine bay. Left side of the image is the rad side, right side is the engine side. The pink hose is a 3d scan of the OEM top hose, the light gray hose is the Acuity smaller (cold) hose, the black hose is...

Hmmm, that's unusual. Chances are the spot you thought was causing a squeak was not it. Generally, grease will resolve a minor squeak. I'd see if perhaps the source is another location. If you are in need of more grease, we can help with that, or if you think for some reason you may have a bad...

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. This echos what we often tell people who are nervous. The first time, especially if you are new to removing interior panels, is a slow process, but after you've done it once, you're wayyyy faster. Glad the mods are treating you well! :) ~Russ

Ah ok. Yes, that's correct. The version with the rubber sleeves just reduces play in neutral and sound from centering a touch more compared to OEM springs and our old design. The new version with rubber started shipping quite a while back though, perhaps as 9-12 months back.

This is a quote in regards to the centering spring upgrade we sell for the OEM shifters (SKU 1918).

They're approximately 135g with the collar. Can't divulge much, but we have some really solid cable upgrades in the works. The OEM ones are good, but they just don't last forever. It's been that way on all cable-shifted Hondas/Acuras since the early 2000's. Hoping to have a more durable option...

Still a few months out, but we recently picked this back up, so it's in progress. :)

They are not. At quick glance, they look similar, but the coil diameter and leg geometry (the straight portion) is different between the OEM shifter and our fully adjustable shifter, and this results in them not being cross-compatible.

This is not accurate. The full shifters have never been sold with rubber sleeves on the spring. You are showing a spring we sell that works on the OEM shifter only. The rubber sleeves on that product are largely to take up poor tolerances on the plastic OEM parts so that the spring makes full...

Still not hearing the squeak. I can hear the click of the spring hitting the rest, and I'm a little confused if perhaps that's what you're hearing? Shoot me an email, and we can get you a packet of the grease we use on our shifters so you can use it to help troubleshoot/resolve the issue once...

Regarding the noise, I wasn't able to detect a squeek in the video. I noticed the sound of the spring resting onto its hard stop (which is more pronounced if you let the shifter snap itself back to center, which is ok to do). Perhaps I'm missing something? Regarding the 12vdc plug, I think you...

I noticed you mentioned needing a video during install. By chance, did you see the install video or console removal video on our Youtube (also linked to on our site in the install area). Let me try to hit all of your notes below. Let me know if I miss anything. Happy to help. :) Regarding the...

Do you have stiffer, aftermarket mounts? Normally the full shifter and cable bushings will not do much to change vibrations, but as stiffer mounts and suspension are added, it all starts to add up and everything vibrates more.

Honda actually sells them for less than a dollar, if memory serves correctly. Part name and number is Clip, Spring 54321-TBA-A01 You could probably rig it with some safety wire (or maybe even a small cotter pin or paper clip) to get you by a couple of days, but I'd be careful and make sure it...

Good point. We normally consider this a given, but it wouldn't hurt to explicitly state it in the guides. Glad the spacer is helping! I'll pass the suggestion onto Todd. :) ~Russ

I recommend playing with all the available options on the spacer (and even without if you would like) to find the right spot. It's hard to know without actually doing some threshold breaking and heel-toe shifting. Our driver, Kevin, played with it and without. We let him run what he likes to...

Haha, you edited just as I was writing a reply! For anyone else reading this, there's no nut under this knob. The knob screws all the way down until it bottoms out. The boot collar that comes with it can be removed (it snaps in and out quite nicely) and affixed to the shift boot, similarly to...

We are currently working a very slick Satin Burnt Titanium version that has some purples in it. :) No ETA presently. There may be other options in the future beyond that as well. ~Russ